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Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 05/05/2020 17:59:46

I remember these as threaded knobs from WDS in the late 70s. They were used in drill jigs and milling fixtures – typically on quick repetition work – where a swing latch was impractical for whatever reason, sometimes with a loose-fitting ring and chain to prevent loss.

There may be some useful measurements somewhere on this site LINK

Hi Added this sketch of 12 mm Slip Nuts we fabricated and used to quickly remove machine guards

Does anyone have a feel for how the maximum grip of such slip nuts compares to a normal full nut?

It seems that the maximum tightening torque will be less than that of a full nut. But how much less? Wild guess says about half that of a full nut torque would be prudent assuming similar lengths of full thread with the stud decently perpendicular to a flat surface for the nut to screw onto.

Thinking of using as an alternative to very hard to start nuts but that would only be OK if they can be done up tight.

Clive

I included a section about such nuts in an article I wrote for MEW about 7 years ago, entitled "Enhancing a Centec Vertical Head". I called them "tilt nuts".  It can be viewed **HERE**

Edited By Gary Wooding on 06/05/2020 12:46:28

Re-living the overhead crane training I had at work…

I realise the eye-nut in the first photo is purely a neat version of a wing-nut for the clamp, but I would wary of so modifying an item of lifting tackle lest it find an opportunity to re-live being lifting tackle.

That is one area where you need maximum thread and no risk of an angular pull detaching the fastening.

On which note if the pull is at all angular to the axis of the thread, the eye-bolt or eye-nut should be the collared and screwed down to full contact, with a washer if necessary.

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Tim's comment about dividers (which I think you mean there) sent me my to tool-chest to examine a pair of Moore & Wright calipers (curved legs terminating in chamfered but blunt points, for measuring in particular, solid diameters), with somewhat similar arrangement.

The adjusting-nut is a knurled disc holding a split sleeve that carries the thread. The sleeve is closed onto the thread by its coned end engaging the countersunk outer end of a clearance-drilled bush, which in turn bears against a pillar on one caliper leg- the screw passing through that and secured in a corresponding pillar on the other leg.

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Talking of calipers or dividers…

I've sometimes wondered about that splendidly dotty old "Ancient of Days" painting of a hairy, naked God measuring the Earth with a pair of dividers. I am sure The Creator would have correctly used calipers, but I wonder if the artist did know that too but felt it prudent to depict dividers instead, as prominently as God, and very suspiciously suggesting a certain long-established private-members' club!

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I am also the proud owner of a very distinctive pair of calipers with flat blades (cut from sheet) only about three inches long, with a simple tightly-rivetted joint, reversible for internal and external diameters. I have no idea of their origin as they were among used tools "paid" to me for a workshop task, but definitely not by M&W or other respectable manufacturer.

If not home-made they were most likely a "bunny", or "homer"; and they are shaped and hand-engraved as a pair of rather "large-boned" lady's legs complete with high-heeled knee-boots and fishnet stockings….