The correct way would be to do all the surfaces in one set up. Can't see the point in leaving the headstock end 'as is', just adding complication for no reason.

Tony

Life is more diffcult than it initially looks.

You will need to regrind of all mating surfaces as well, eg saddle and tailstock, corresponding gib strips etc.

This can be done in Mytholmroyd (where whatever is left out of Myford is located) but if you are located in Poland as your surname suggests, your option is to find a fitter who may undertake rescrapping it for a reasonable money.

Have you managed to get bedways and mating surfaces rescrapped, your machine will be superior to any ground product, possibly better than new.

IMO doing any scraping job on surface under headstock is of no use, but if you go for grinding, by all means do it as well. You will possibly need to reallign headstock with bedways after all this job. There is a lot of mythology around about supposed difficulties in doing so. Contrary to all of that I have found this task quite straightforward. You will get there with set of shimming strips, precision level, test turning bar with 2 bobbins 6 inch or so apart, patient measurments and 1-3 days of dedication. Later you may need to reallign crosslide.

I was there in the past. Still tapered socket needs correction and suitable grinding jig to be mounted on crosslide is under construction.

Martin

My ML7 has those two clamping screws in the front of the headstock to force the headstock into contact with the inner shear, so not just a Super 7 thing, I think. Either way, definitely worth getting the bed ground in that area to get perfect line up.

You should look at getting the underside of the saddle ground too. They seem to wear far more than the bed. EG my ML7 had 3 thou wear on the bed on the vertical shear that guides the saddle, and more than 25 thou on the saddle surface that ran on it. On the top of the bed way i had 4 thou wear but the mating area on the underside of the saddle had more like 10 thou. (Luckily I scored a recently reground saddle on eBay and solved that problem!)

Then there are the dovetails on the top of the saddle and the underside of the cross slide. Usually not so worn though. But it can go on and on … It all depends on just how perfect you want it, relative to the type of work you will do on it, and what kind of work you want do on your wallet also.

Yes, shame about the lack of suitable regrinders these days. The nearest one to me in Aust. is about 1500 miles away. Luckily I was able to do the wide guide conversion on my old ML7 and get away without a regrind. Not an option on the later Super 7 like yours though. (Although, you could look into converting it in to a narrow guide and using the vertical shear on the back of the front bed way to guide it.)

Myford were quoting earlier this year 495 pound to regrind the bed and 165 Pounds to regrind the saddle. I'm sure the others are cheaper.

When milling the shears on a new bed, Myford (Beeston) gang milled all four shears at one go, but when refurbishing used beds each shear was done individually as the wear would be different over the four shears. Cutter heads ran all the way along the shears. I seem to remember that cutters with ceramic inserts were used.

For the top of the bed, first it was turned over and the four feet ground at the same setting on a surface grinder, then the bed was turned right way up and the flat tops ground on the same surface grinder. Maximum that was removed was 5 thou (0.005" ).

Regrinding the saddle was optional, but was strongly recommended.

When I had a bed only regrind in 2008 it cost £147 incl VAT

Edited By Robbo on 09/12/2017 10:14:07  To get rid of smiley!

Edited By Robbo on 09/12/2017 10:15:09