Square Thread for Minnie

Square Thread for Minnie

Home Forums Workshop Techniques Square Thread for Minnie

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  • #283302
    Brian Abbott
    Participant
      @brianabbott67793

      Hello again, after more advice.

      This will defiantly be a run before you can walk type of question, but I would like to try and cut a square thread on the Minnie break screw.

      Is there a formula or something to work out what the depth & pitch should be?.

      Thanks for any advice.

      Brian

      break_shaft.jpg

      #15912
      Brian Abbott
      Participant
        @brianabbott67793
        #283308
        Brian H
        Participant
          @brianh50089

          The only one I've ever cut was for a Clayton Waggon and that was 1/4" 2 start! At the same time as cutting the steering column I also cut a silver steel tap so it didn't really need to be a precise size, as long as it fitted (which of course it did).

          Brian

          Edited By Brian Hutchings on 09/02/2017 14:15:13

          The cutter was 1/16" wide and plunged in 1/16" but I don't think it needs to be that deep.

          Edited By Brian Hutchings on 09/02/2017 14:18:49

          #283311
          HOWARDT
          Participant
            @howardt

            3/16 BSW is 24tpi.

            According to my old Newnes Engineers Manual it gives the smallest standard Acme pitch as 16tpi. But it also gives these calculations.

            width of point of tool = (0.3707 / threads per in) – 0.0052

            depth of thread = 1/2pitch + 0.010

            flat at top of thread = pitch x 0.3707

            flat at root of thread = pitch x 0.3707 – 0.0052

            So from those calculations you could make a couple of tools to cut your 24tpi.

            #283315
            JasonB
            Moderator
              @jasonb

              Square (not ACME) thread is easy to work out

              Assume 24tpi as per the Whit option

              width of cutter = 1 / (2xtpi) so 1 / (2×24) = 0.021"

              Use this width of cutter to cut the male thread and then stone a thou or two off the side and use the thinner cutter to make your tap from Silver steel. By slightly stoning the tool you get tap teeth that will leave a slight clearance for the male thread.

              Depth of cut is the same as the width so 0.021".

              When I did my minnie many years ago I did not havce a screw cutting lathe so use 3/16" whit.

              One of the reasons I bought my Warco 280 was to be able to screwcut teh 16tpi square thread on teh 2" Fowler and that was the first thread I had ever screwcut so in at the deep end. From that I would say make your tap very long so you can have a very gradual taper or make two shorter sequential ones. My tap in the foreground was really too short.

               

               

               

              Edited By JasonB on 09/02/2017 14:48:43

              #283317
              Anonymous

                Errr, both the title and first post state a square thread!

                For a full depth square thread the width of the thread, the width of the gap, and the depth of thread are all the same and equal to half the pitch. So if we assume the thead to be cut is 24tpi then the pitch is ~0.04167", and half that is 0.0208".

                A problem with square threads, and one reason why Acme threads became popular, is that the can interfere on the root, crest and flank independently.

                When I made my square thread brake shafts I hand ground and honed a HSS toolbit to the correct width, using a micrometer. I then cut taps in silver steel. Square, and Acme taps, usually come in a series with increasing OD, with the last tap cutting full depth. I cut the taps with the full OD and the correct depth of thread. My thread OD was ½" so I made a set of three:

                finished_taps.jpg

                When I cut the brake shaft I made the OD a few thou undersize, and cut slightly deeper than theoretically correct. That should sort out the crest and root interference problems. Once I'd cut the square thread in the nut:

                square threads.jpg

                I gradually reduced the width of the thread on the brake shaft until the nut fitted smoothly and without shake:

                finished brake shafts.jpg

                Andrew

                Edit: Bother, too darn slow as usual, I'll just crawl back into the cave and get on with some work

                Edited By Andrew Johnston on 09/02/2017 14:53:54

                #283320
                Brian Abbott
                Participant
                  @brianabbott67793

                  Thanks Guys,

                  I never ceases to amaze me the amount of knowledge on this site and the willingness to help.

                  Thanks again

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