Go the ER route – better in the long run. I've standardised on ER32 & ER16 (I have a Taig milling head.)

Worth thinking about the largest diameter you will need to grip…

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 18/03/2019 09:22:18

I use MT2 collets for holding milling cutters in my FB2 clone. I prefer them for the reduced overhang from the spinlde nose that puts the cutter closer to the spindle bearings. Not had any problems with cutters slipping or pulling out, though as the FB2 clone has a captive drawbar I can pull the collets in tight and easily release them without having to pound on the drawbar.

The ability of ER collets to grip different sizes within each collets range isn't much of an advantage with milling cutters, as most are supplied with shanks to a standard size i.e 1 – 6 mm cutters all come with a 6mm shank.

Nigel B

This is quite interesting. My Mill is MT4, I have collet sets from ER11 through to ER40. But unless I get the really good ones, it is just not the same as a MT collet or any other direct spindle collet. The only advantage of the ER system, is that when I change to a drill chuck, the head height stays at about the same height for most things that need both drilling and milling. I think that the MT collets will hold better than a ER , simply because there is one less something to not be concentric. Most small cutter come on 4mm shanks, there area few 3mm shank cutters, then there is a few 5mm, but standard is 6mm, 8mm 10mm 12mm, If your mill is 2 MT , 3 to 8mm will most likely cover the range for you.

I'm looking at a set of 4,6,8,10 collets will cover most of what I need.

Neil

Nick,

Just to clarify my earlier post – ER collets have many uses beyond just holding cutters in your mill. I use them for not only holding cutters on my lathes and mills – but for work holding too (so everything – lathes, mills and shapers). Once you start using them, I think you will quickly accumulate a whole range of ER 'holders' – including ER chucks, ER blocks and Spin Indexers.

Regards,

IanT

If the lathe and mill spindle-noses were changed from Morse to ER everything will be better I think.

MT3 machined for ER32 and ER25 for former MT2s?

Same change for Milling machine .

One downsid eto using MT or R8 collets is that it can make it hard to see what you are doing when using small cutters, take this example of teh SX2.7 when standing this is what you see

And not a lot better if you bend down and you ca't get near work if clamps are too close

One option for small cutters is an end mill holder which will still be better for seeing what you are doing even with ER25 or ER32 particularly if using a bearing nut which tends to be square edged.

But for versatility and if you can only budget for one then go for the ER25 with say 6 common metric collets and if you work in imperial get the imperial collets too. Others can be added later if needed.

+1 for R8 then you can use R8 collets for big cutters and ER chuck and collets for little ones, perhaps using a smaller ER series as well. R8 are much less likely to get stuck, and is standard on Bridgeports so widely available

Edited By duncan webster on 18/03/2019 14:27:39

I have a Sieg SX2P 3MT and use an ER25 collet holder. Most of the time the maximum cutter I use is 8mm, I found this to be the sweet spot for metal removal and vibration. Almost never use the maximum 16mm and only use 1/2 inch for a dovetail cutter and 12mm for a fly cutter. ER25 gives me good visibilty around the cutter although I have raised the column by about 75mm as there seemed a lot of waster travel.

I find the frequent advice not to buy the set of ER collets bizarre. To me, ER collets have two advantages over taper fit ones: each accommodates a useful range of sizes, and that you can quickly change the collet rather than the chuck.

I bought the full set of ER32 collets with my chuck about ten years ago, and quickly bought a bolt on chuck for the lathe, then Stevenson's blocks when they became available. I use the things all the time: I don't hold milling cutters in anything else(I immediately gave away the Clarkson copy chuck), and use them for drill bits when the chuck is already installed. The lathe chuck is excellent for smaller diameter work, and the blocks do the same on the mill. Despite that I have 3 collets that are still wrapped in the shipping plastic. But I don't know when I'll need them, and having to stop work to acquire a £6 tool is a real blow to get work done.

I agree with ER recommendations, but have one reservation. The statement that they fit all sizes metric or imperial might need slight amendment. bought a set metric ER colletsbut I also have a lot of imperial size end mills and slot drills. I mean a lot; six in a packet, lots of packets, all brand new. I found it hard to get a 1/4" shank cutter into the nearest metric collet without forcing it. Rather than risking damaging anything, I had a look and found that Tracy tools did a set of five different imperial size collets to fit all my cutters, and at a very reasonable price.

Regards Maurice

I have R8 collets and ER collet chucks. With both systems I had problems with the cutter working out of the collet. Where I can not tolerate cutter movement I use end mill holders where the tool shank is retained by a setscrew on the flat of a Weldon shank.

Most of us are likely to under tighten the collet nuts on ER collets. I believe the recommended torque on the ER32 nut is around 100 ft. lb. The spanner furnished with the ER32 holder is a little over 6" long. Even with a cheater pipe on it the length is only about a foot. That would take an effort of 100 lb. applied at the end of the handle. Ain't gonna happen.

I do prefer ER collet chucks to collets held in the spindle. It is more convenient to access the nut on the chuck vs the drawbar. The drawbar is about the limit of my reach.

I bought 1/4" and 1/8" ones as well, it's just less fiddly than closing a collet right down. I find 10mm fine for 3/8" tools though.