Warco WM 16 arbour removal

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

Warco WM 16 arbour removal

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

Today I’ve received my new WM16 and have it installed in my garage. So far all I’ve done is switch the machine on and make sure it spins. The machine came with an arbour that I want to remove and replace with one of a set of 2MT Direct Collets that I bought at the same time. According to the manual I should loosen the draw bar three to four turns and then strike the head of the draw bar with a rubber mallet. I’ve tried this but the arbour seems to have no intention of dislodging. As I’m new to the hobby and have no experience I don’t want to hit too hard, but at the same time it really seems as though it doesn’t want to budge. I’d be very grateful for any advice.

Thanks in advance,

David

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

Hit it with a copper or lead hammer. Rubber won't work

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Or interpose a bit of wood and hit that with a hammer if you don't have a 'soft' one.

And put a bit of wood on the machine bed to 'catch' it if it falls off the end of the draw bar.

Don't make a habit of this, there are simple designs for self-ejecting drawbars for most machines.

Neil

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Neil,
Warco's website claims that the WM16 has a self ejecting drawbar. This seems to be a contradiction. We need a reply from someone that has a WM16.

Les.

[Steve FParticipant @stevef]

Hi David

The Warco WM16 is much the same as my Amadeal AMA25. Both machines already have an built in self ejecting drawbar so there should be no need for a mallet.

On my machine you release the drawbar nut. It goes very loose but keep going. Eventually maybe more than 3-4 turns you will feel a resistance. This is the drawbar in contact with the self ejecting captive nut. A bit more work with the spanner and you will hear a noise when the taper tool releases. Keep going with the spanner and hold on to the tool to stop it falling out and hitting the table. Dont ask me how i know

regards

Steve

[Martin WhittleParticipant @martinwhittle67411]

There is a threaded 'cup' that screws down over the external thread on top of the spindle. Screw this down lightly (i.e. not even finger tight). When you then unscrew the drawbar using an 8 mm spanner on the square section on top, the drawbar pushes against the cup and thus ejects the tooling from from the taper at the lower end of the spindle.

Hope this helps

Martin

Note there is a very detailed manual for a very similar, but not identical machine (e.g. it uses R8 tooling rather than MT2) at cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0704_m.pdf

 

 

Edited By Martin Whittle on 17/07/2014 22:31:55

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

A massive thanks to everybody for such a quick response – and as I type the arbour is now separated from the machine.

Steve and Martin – that was exactly what I needed to know and really appreciated !

David

[Tom GullanParticipant @tomgullan59234]

David, Les,

I'm probable a bit on the late side with this post. I've had a Warco WM16 for approximately twelve months now and am very happy with the machine. I have always required a light tap with a copper hammer in order to eject the arbour.

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