Harrison Mill question

[Andy PughParticipant @andypugh44463]

 

Posted by Andy Pugh on 11/11/2016 13:33:50:

A friend of mine is planning to make castings for an adaptor for one of the cheap eBay ER20 high-speed spindles that will fit onto the overarm dovetail. I have said that I will take one too. Is there any interest here?

In the end I ended up doing the design and castings and making one for my own mill.

Nearly there.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HSYi5EUPOqq1lL282

Edited By Andy Pugh on 29/10/2017 16:04:49

[Paul Appleton 1Participant @paulappleton1]

I can't believe more than a year has passed since I last logged in here. The mill is now up and running, complete with the rather large Richmond Hyspeed vertical head. I found a Transwave static inverter to power the 3 phase electrics on the mill and the head is still single phase, which makes for some interesting wiring. Not having a set of change gears for the power traverse, I bushed up some Myford gears which work a treat. Only problem I have at the moment is with the knee gib adjusters. They seem to work the opposite to what one would think. The result for me is that dropping the knee is now a bit jerky, although the knee doesn't seem too tight. I have read the manual but must be suffering a senior moment. Any help would be much appreciated, i.e. an idiots how to.

By chance I was lucky enough to strip some parts from a Horizontal machine, not a universal, that was being scrapped, so I have a table lead screw, feed box and motor, main drive motor, suds pump, overarm, and a large box of bits. If anyone is in need, I'll not be wanting dealer prices.

BR, Paul

[Paul Appleton 1Participant @paulappleton1]

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/members/albums/edit_album.asp?a=42630

Hopefully a link to finished Mill

BR Paul

[Andy PughParticipant @andypugh44463]

Posted by Paul Appleton 1 on 14/02/2018 09:13:04:

Only problem I have at the moment is with the knee gib adjusters. They seem to work the opposite to what one would think. The result for me is that dropping the knee is now a bit jerky, although the knee doesn't seem too tight. I have read the manual but must be suffering a senior moment.

There are at least two designs of knee gib adjuster, and the reproduction manuals seem to be for the earlier version.

Try taking one of the adjusters out (three pieces, if I recall correctly) and it might make sense.

On mine there is a collar threaded externally that the retaining bar is clamped against by the cap-head screws. I am a bit fuzzy on the way this is adjusted, but I seem to recall that there is a top-hat bush under the hex-socket screw that clamps it all together and that some features in the top-hat bush engage the threaded collar. So you turn the top-hat bush with a special tool (I sacrificed a cheap socket and welded on a handle) then clamp the screw with a key down the hole in the socket. You turn the bush clockwise to push the collar out to loosen the gib and anticlockwise to tight n it, then clamp solid with the socket screw.

Yours might, of course, be the other design.

[Paul Appleton 1Participant @paulappleton1]

Thank you Andy,

It was a long shot that anyone would reply to such an old thread. I won't be able to get to the workshop this week, but will have a fettle (fiddle) as soon as possible. Funny how when people hear you've got a mill, you have some new best mates! My main interest is old British motorcycles, Ariels in particular. Many of the available items now for sale are repo and the quality varies somewhat.

Once again, many thanks,

Paul

[Andy PughParticipant @andypugh44463]

Posted by Paul Appleton 1 on 19/02/2018 09:24:28:

My main interest is old British motorcycles, Ariels in particular.

I think I might be the only source for repro Ner-a-Car parts.

Lots of Harrison use in this blog. (Including using it for spring winding and seam rolling)

**LINK**

[Andy PughParticipant @andypugh44463]

Just a quick link, I wrote up the strip and rebuild of my original vertical head:

**LINK**

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