Gloves

[Keith MathesonParticipant @keithmatheson47708]

[Keith MathesonParticipant @keithmatheson47708]

Hi

I have just spent a happy first day playing with my new milling machine (ama30L as you asked). I have noticed however the swarf from a milling machine is in a new league of nastiness when compared to the lathe. I normally wear the rubber or nitrile gloves but these just don't offer enough protection against those razor sharpe slivers! What suggestions do you have for a glove that is still thin enough to offer a good feel without being too bulky?

Best regards

Keith MM

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

I would never wear any sort of glove while running the machine under power but for cleaning up there are Kevlar reinforced gloves that resist cutting and are quite thin. I still remember the picture shown to us on our apprenticeship induction of a finger and the tendons ripped out from the forearm laid on a drilling machine table, a dire warning about gloves and drilling machines.

Mike

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

I was taught to never wear gloves to operate a mill or lathe.

I pick up large swarf with a pair of long nose pliers and then use a wet vacuum cleaner to pick up the smaller shavings.

Paul.

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

I never wear gloves for machining, but use ordinary riggers gloves for cleaning up and changing cutters etc. The gloves I use are ordinary 'Riggers gloves' which are as cheap as chips off eBay and come in various cuff lengths and sizes. I've never made any sense of nitrile / latex gloves for anything, (even painting) maybe I need to try harder.

Steve

[IanTParticipant @iant]

I don't wear gloves (or rings, bracelets or watch) when using any of my 'powered' tools. All cleaning/moving of swarf being done by paint brushes allocated to each machine. I have small flat bottomed trowels (garden variety) to move the swarf away from the machine into the swarf bucket I keep handy for that purpose.

However, I do wear gloves for much of the rest of my time in the workshop. They make life much easier when handling stock – especially the rusty stuff I have in my 'scrap' bins. They also make the work pleasanter when hacksawing or filing – helping to avoid blistered hands (I don't do many of the hand operations often enough to get callouses). I don't use the nitrile type (they make my hands sweat too much) – preferring a synthetic 'cloth' type with reinforced work surfaces and Velcro wrist bands. They need to be a good fit though – not too loose or too tight.

And of course, they also help to keep my hands warm – important if you suffer from any form of arthritis.

Regards,

IanT

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

20 Quid sounds a cheap way of keeping your fingers ! NEVER wear gloves, scarfs etc. Hats – yes.

**LINK**

OK, Brass, Al etc are a problem. I use a paint brush, then a workshop vacuum cleaner, suds and all.
BobH

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Do not use gloves for machining. Your hands will get tough the more work you do. Always switch machine off when removing swarf and use a bent metal hook and long nose pliers. No swarf in front of hand, always behind when pulling.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Posted by Paul Lousick on 31/12/2015 09:23:22:

I was taught to never wear gloves to operate a mill or lathe.

I pick up large swarf with a pair of long nose pliers and then use a wet vacuum cleaner to pick up the smaller shavings.

Paul.

Exactly the same method I use; I have taught apprentices the same method as well;  I take off wedding ring, watch, roll back my warehouse coat sleeves, wear safety glasses, & safety toe cap trainers when I go into my man cave ( garage ).

George.

 

Edited By mechman48 on 31/12/2015 10:22:04

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

I have a magnetic swarf remover the type that you pull the handle and it drops off into the bin invaluable for ferrous materials.

Basically a magnet in a stainless tube

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Nitrile gloves are a no no on powered tools. They can grab on to rotating parts.

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Gloves seem to direct splinters into my skin so I just have bare skin when using the lathe and mill. I was taught it is better to lose a bit of skin than a finger or hand. I keep rolls of paper towel handy to remove gross contamination and wash frequently.

Martin

[jason udallParticipant @jasonudall57142]

One of the truly most unpleasant experience in machining is putting on gloves that swarf has already got into.

Brass gets everywhere

Gloves save the hands when deburring but it still gets in there.

I do use nitrile gloves /gauntlet for chemical protection
And leather gloves for hot work.
But mostly for machining and swarf clean up I prefer not.

One important thing….
Avoid using airlines on hands…it finds cuts in skin…and I have seen it nearly..”deglove”..never to be forgotten.

[Anonymous]

I'm with Steve; cheap riggers gloves for handling rusty/oily stock and parts, but never, ever wear gloves when operating machinery. I've had an incident where clothing has been grabbed by a rotating machine, and believe me it scares the s**t out of you.

I don't wear gloves when gas welding but do wear appropriate gloves when arc or TIG welding to protect from UV.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

Going against everyone else, I wear nitrile gloves almost all the time in the workshop. I have psoriasis and also have bouts of a nastier skin problem called pyoderma gangrenosum that mainly affect my hands. I know the risks but protecting them from dirt and fluids is more important , it's either them or give up which I'm not prepared to do. I have caught the gloves probably 3 times over 10 years or so but they rip and have not caused any injury. Suppose it's my current size and strength that prevents this at the moment , if/when I become more infirm I will have to have a rethink but until then I'll continue to wear gloves.

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Devils advocate here and I wear gloves all the while in the workshop and I do this for a living.

Don't like the nitrile ones they are too 'grabby' and stick to handles etc.

I use the thin fabric ones that have a poly something sprayed front, usually called PU gloves. Average price is about 90p to £1.25 per pair but in bulk I pay about 45p per pair.

As I'm doing this for a living by biggest enemy is hot chips, hot enough to burn your hands and these stop a lot of it although they can melt holes in the fabric if I'm rushing. They are warm and you can handle small nuts and bolts down to M4 size with them on.

As regards safety if your hands are anywhere near rotating machinery that gloves can catch then they are too close anyway. It's pure common sense.

DON'T PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR ROTATING MACHINERY.

Adopt that rule and you will have a far easier life. Dress accordingly, no loose clothes, ties are for fly fishing, not workshops, ask J. R. Hartley and wear decent footwear.

I wear steel toe capped rigger boots as it's what I'm used to but that's probably well OTT for a home shop.

I cringe when I see photo's of people in the shop in sandals.

If you get a pair of contaminated gloves then turn them inside out, give then a good batting and leave then inside out and get a new pair, not that expensive. Then later when you are cleaning swarf tray put the dirty pair on top of the clean pair, then either put them back inside out so you can spot them easily as dirty gloves or just dump them.

Safety is not embedded in a set of rules and regulations, it should be embedded in your own mind. You and only you are responsible for your safety.

Silly things like a bar of metal sticking out of a tray on the floor, make it so it doesn't stick out and catch your ankles.

It's not rocket science.

[JAParticipant @ja]

Leather gloves used when winding springs (on lathe, manual, with the power off), using a hand grinder (usually a Dremel) and silver soldering (I do not weld). Otherwise, never.

As for swarf, I find the most useful tool is a small rake.

JA

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, I have to agree with what John has said. I don't do turning or milling at work, but do use drilling and power bands saw machines etc. and always wear gloves, mostly rigger gloves. Common sense should always prevail and never get your hands anywhere near moving parts that are cutting metal how ever big or small.

Regards Nick.

[60019Participant @60019]

Using that once popular but now rare phrase – I agree with Nick.

No gloves for lathe and milling machine, but rigger gloves for filing, sawing and band saw.

But I'll also add that before work I always apply a barrier cream to my hands. I don't know if it does much, but I always feel it provides some protection when in contact with grease, oil, cutting fluid etc, and certainly makes cleaning my hands afterwards easier. (Aside: I've nearly finished the big jar of Swarfega I bought at the same time as the lathe and milling machine. Regrettably I have a feeling that I am still so unproductive in the workshop that the weight of Swarfega used exceeds the weight of finished parts . Maybe 2016 will be better….).

[Keith MathesonParticipant @keithmatheson47708]

Hi

Many thanks for the informed comments. On balance I think I will continue to use the rubber gloves in the workshop as my skin and oils do not mix so well. I note the comments about rotating machines and a gloved hand. When it comes to cleaning up I will invest in some heavier duty gloves with the machine switched off!

Best regards

Keith MM

[JAParticipant @ja]

Posted by Keith Matheson on 31/12/2015 13:55:03:

Hi

Many thanks for the informed comments. On balance I think I will continue to use the rubber gloves in the workshop as my skin and oils do not mix so well.

Barrier cream? It works for me and I think Screwfix sell it. If not Morris Oils certainly does.

JA

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

Posted by JA on 31/12/2015 14:18:11:

Posted by Keith Matheson on 31/12/2015 13:55:03:

Hi

Many thanks for the informed comments. On balance I think I will continue to use the rubber gloves in the workshop as my skin and oils do not mix so well.

Barrier cream? It works for me and I think Screwfix sell it. If not Morris Oils certainly does.

JA

+1 – I use it all the time to stop the suds drying my skin.

[Martin WhittleParticipant @martinwhittle67411]

+1 vote for using disposable nitrile gloves almost all the time in the workshop, since I have dry skin prone to eczema. They give very useful protection against oils and other contaminants and dirt. The mechanical protection they give is minimal, so I might expect to go through a number of pairs during a day in the workshop.

Using the disposable blue type, there will be no risk with rotating machinery – the glove is thin and would be very easily torn and ripped off your hand in a dangerous situation, we are not talking a about a tough mechanically protective glove. Being thin, they also do not significantly affect hand dexterity and sense of feel.

They can be bought in boxes of 100 on the 'bay from around £5; search for 'bodyguard nitrile glove'; the ones I use come in blue packets with 'L/8.5 Large GL8953' identification.

Martin

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I also have 2 boxes of latex examination gloves ( Boots, £5 per 100 ) for general use in the garage, thin enough to provide liquid / oil protection yet still provides sensitivity… ( Ooooh Matron     )

 

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 31/12/2015 18:02:09

[MalcBParticipant @malcb52554]

Another plus for powder free soft Latex gloves.

I have used this brand for some time now but purchased at the same price from my local industrial stockist which work out less than £4/100 ( 200 per box ). I tend to go through loads so min 2 x boxes per time.

You do loose a tad of sensitivity when handling small fiddly screws and their like.

**LINK**

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