cl500m milling & drilling

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi guys.

I havent used the drill/milling head on this machine yet and I'm just trying to work out how to approach jobs.

My first queries is regarding drilling into the centre of bar that is in the lathe.

As the drill/mill head is not fixed, how do I get it centred? I need a foolproof first time every time solution.

Cheers

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Hi Danni,

I have not used a CL500M lathe/mill but I think you will find that using it to mill parts that are located in the lathe chuck will be limited to drilling or milling a round hole because there is no X-axis (along the lathe) or Y-axis (across the lathe) movement of the cutter. More complex operations are done by mounting the part on the cross slide which can move lengthwise and sideways under the milling cutter.

Look at Youtube videos, etc for operations of the lathe/mill. eg. **LINK**

In regard to your question about drilling into the centre of a bar in the lathe. This is not easily done to achieve an accurate position because the mill head can rotate about its post and its difficult to find the exact centre of the job. One solution that will give a reasonably accurate centre is to place a flat bar (150mm steel rule, etc) on top of the round material in the lathe. Then mount a pointer in the drill chuck and lower it onto the flat bar. Rorate the mill head until the flat bar is horizontal. (A similar method is used for positioning the lathe cutter height on the centre of the part but with the steel rule vertical). Any holes that you want to drill have to be directly under the drill as there is no axial movement of the mill. Therefore not a practical method of machining parts.

Paul

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Google "round bar centre finder" for something that fits in the chuck. It is a Y shaped tool if you look at images.

Martin C

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Rough and ready, not particularly precise – rotate milling head while gently lowering it to just touch the item. First contact will be top dead centre. Dot punch in the centre of the first ‘touch’ line and you won’t be so far off. As above, the hole can only be in one place along the length. You really need a riser or angle block, of some description, fixed to the cross slide to use the machine as a mill.

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi guys

I really appreciate your input.

Paul – yes it seems that your right about the limitations unfortunately. I at least expected to be able to machine flats on the end of a round bar or keyways, which would be best help in a locked lathe chuck.

The steel rule not a bad solution, which would probably be accurate enough in most cases. I do use that method for lathe cutters, until I can get a face cut.

Martin, I assume you mean the image below. I think is probably the best and quickest method; notwithstanding the 4 days P&P. But Im sure the tool will be very handy in future. approx £10

NDIY – You mean marking the top of bar with the cutter. This is probably as accurate as the balancing ruler (only because its fully dependant on eyesight) and again would probably be good enough in most cases (e.g. drilling for a screw in a collar).

It looks like a very expensive self-centering vice is the best bet for this type of work if routine, and maybe some V-blocks in a normal vice is the most cost effective; but either way the centre finding is still necessary each time you set up from a lathe.

I did design a solution after I posted the querie last nigh. See below:

Its a piece of round bar with a centre hole and through-hole down the centre. You could then use either a centre or a drill/bar in the Mill chuck to centre up. Would still need Martins solution (round bar centre finder) to make this though.

The only constraint that I can see is the position of the centre-hole, which I think is approx 3" from my Jaws (hence the reason for spigot for holding in lathe chuck).

Of course this need to be perfectly at 90degrees, but a slight turning of both the chuck and mill head by hand would get this pretty bob on.

Thoughts, improvements, appreciated.

cheers

[vic francisParticipant @vicfrancis]

Hi Danni, Have you the cast iron milling table which bolts to the cross slide? , if so mount your vice on it! Then measure your material diameter, and put it in the vice , put your milling chuck in the mill head and tighten the draw bar. Select the cutter and note the size, so for example two cutting edges for a blind hole for example. Moisten a small strip of rizla paper to the outside of the bar, then start the machine and slowly advance to the outside of the bar, the paper will be caught on the os of the cutter, then all you do is raise the head on the quill handle, retracting the cutter.Zero or note the dial reading on the cross slide,and you need to move 1/2 the diam of your cutter, plus 1/2 the diam of your material diam . Then you will be on the centre line of your material!That is a old fashioned way, but the mounting of a digital display makes light work of it! Even a inexpensive digital calliper display… msg me if you want info …

ps it is better to mount the work on the table and vice than in the 3j chuck limitations !

regards

vic

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi Vic

I dont have the Clarke Block. I couldnt find one so have a piece of I section. Thats another story …

I expect this block and vice all need to be squared up as well. I intend to install some keys in mine to speed that up.

I understand your described method and I guess old skool methods are the best.

I will drop you a line regarding digital caliper thingymabob. I'd like to install one if not too much messing.

cheers

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Vic your not public profile

Can you drop me a line, Im looking to pick your brains for cheapo Digital Caliper/ Reader install.

cheers

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