My understanding is the difference can be decided almost entirely by temperature: below 450°C it's soldering, above 450°C it's almost certainly Brazing.
Both processes rely on melting a filler metal at below the joint metals melting point. Filler metals that melt below 450°C include Bismuth, Zinc, Tin and Lead. As Bismuth is expensive and poisonous and Zinc evaporates easily and the fumes are poisonous, most solders are alloys of Tin and Lead. Tin melts at 232°C, and Lead at 326°C, but alloying them reduces the melting point. A solder containing 60% Tin and 40% Lead melts at 182°C making it highly suitable for electronic work. It can be precision melted with an electric iron that's not a fire risk, and the solder usually comes with built in flux. The flux is relatively weak and depends on the joint being clean.
Plumbing solder requires considerably more skill because operations are on a much grander scale. The operator has to choose and apply his own flux, and carefully judge the heat. Copper pipe isn't too difficult, but soldering Lead Pipe is skilled work. Plumbers are trained to do it and some become specialists. In the good old days power cables and communications wiring were often protected by lead sheathed cable that had to be carefully soldered at the joints to keep water out: this also is skilled work.
The disadvantage of soldered joints is they aren't mechanically strong.
The words 'Braze' and 'Brazen' both point to the main filler metal used above 450°C – Brass. Brass is an alloy of mostly Copper and Zinc. Pure Copper melts at 1085°C, but alloying it with Zinc drops the melting point. High Zinc Yellow Brass melts at about 900°C. This is very convenient for jointing Iron and Steel; it's much easier than welding, and done quickly the heat doesn't alter the steel. The disadvantage is that, although considerably stronger than solder, Brazed joints are weak compared with Welded or Rivetted joints. In the past, Brazing was associated with cheap and nasty car repairs – I vaguely remember it being made illegal for garages to mend cars by brazing.
Brazing was originally done with ordinary Brass Filings, and still can be, but 900°C is an uncomfortably hot working temperature. The melting point of Brass can be reduced by further alloying it with other metals notably Silver (expensive) or Cadmium (poisonous). Cadmium has been banned for all but special purposes, shame because it's not particularly hazardous in small workshop quantities. It turns nasty when people have to work with it all day every day, or live downwind of a plant, and if it leaks into the water. Silver solder is good stuff, some alloys melting as low as 620°C. As some Brazing alloys containing a lot of Cadmium melt below 450°C, and some solders melt above 450°C, the border isn't rock solid.
Whilst scientists and engineers try to use consistent technical terms, the same can't be said of trades and practical men! Don't be surprised to find the same word meaning several entirely different things (like Alum), or definitions being blurred as with 'Soldering' and 'Brazing'. Despite the name 'Silver Solder' is usually a Brazing material and process. Some trades say 'Soft Soldering' for less than 450°C, and 'Hard Soldering' for above that. In effect 'Hard Soldering' = 'Brazing'.
Keeping it simple:
- Soldering – low temperature, mostly easy to do with low tech equipment but joints are weak.
- Brazing – harder to do, needs more equipment and much more heat, and the joints are medium strength.
- Welding – Hardest to do, requires special equipment, high temperatures and skills. Properly done, joints will be as strong as the base material.
As always, engineering is about balance. Fit for purpose is the goal. Model Locomotive Boilers are a good example; the Codes all discourage Soldering because soldered joints are borderline in terms of strength. Probably wouldn't go bang, but why risk it? Likewise the Codes discourage Welding because amateurs are likely to make a mess of it in non-obvious ways. It's difficult to prove welded joints are sound, especially when they can't be seen. Brazing is recommended because it's reliable – more than strong enough for the job, relatively lenient, and easy to spot and fix mistakes. A boiler brazed by a skilled expert will be a work of art but I think I could just about make a simple one. (Probably ugly and only after much wasted time and materials. I can't see me ever putting the effort in needed to become proficient!)
Dave