bridgeport mill table feed wiring diagram with erskin pd/1114/01/b control unit

[richard heardParticipant @richardheard]

hi I am hoping someone can help me. I have a Bridgeport mill serial n/o445750388 with a erskin table feed control n/o pd/1114/01/b which is not working has someone got a wiring diagram for this unit up to the micro switches and pot as it looks as if my wiring has been got at and could be all mixed up kind regards to all richard

[richard heardParticipant @richardheard]

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Richard

Check the overload hasn't tripped. Isolate power and in the table feed control unit you will see the red re-set button, just press firmly to reset in case it had tripped, if you hear a distinct click then that will be reset.

Worth a try before ripping out the wiring !!!!!!

Emgee

[richard heardParticipant @richardheard]

hi emgee I have checked continuity of the overload and solderd 3 very loose dry joints on the terminal connection board there is now something happening as a resistor is heating up it is green and marked w22-100 r which makes me feel there is a wire on wrong from the control out to the switches regards richard

[Roger HeadParticipant @rogerhead16992]

Richard, there are some schematics for the 6F and 8F power feeds in the Bridgeport manual published by Hardinge. It's ~4.3MB, I can't remember where I d/l it from, but it's not hard to find on the web. It might be named BP_Mill_Series1_Manual.pdf. See pages 5-10 to 5-17. I also have a hard copy of a sheet that has a general arrangement / interconnection of the main machine control box (model WD 154/D) that matches my Bridgeport, and that shows a very simple interconnection diagram for the motor, microswitches, and speed pot. I'll try to copy it (it's not a very good print) and post it in my album. Might take a couple of hours…

Roger

Edit. Pages 5-10 or 5-12 of the Hardinge manual may be essentially the same as the layout in my hard copy, and have the benefit of colour coding of the wires.

 

Edited By Roger Head on 08/12/2015 02:07:19

[Roger HeadParticipant @rogerhead16992]

Here's a link to the Hardinge manual

**LINK**

Roger

[john fletcher 1Participant @johnfletcher1]

To Richard above, I have a circuit diagram and list of components of the control board and will send you a copy. Please send me a pm with your home address. and I'll pop it in the post. I had a very old copy of the circuit diagram and some one here redrew it, made a good job of it ,now things are much clearer. The motor is a 110 volt DC shunt wound, I've tested the motor circuit for a friend who owns a Bridgeport Mill using a 110 volt site transformer and a bridge rectifier separately from the speed board , just to verify that it was the board and not the motor. Also have you checked the speed potentiometer, they get a lot of use and wear. Its a wire wound one obtainable from RS or Farnel. John

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Richard

The wiring from the board to the potentiometer and switches is standard for all Erskine units and appears on the main Bridgeport circuit diagrams pertaining to the appropriate year. The one I use is WD 145/D of mid 1970's vintage. You should have a one piece connector to the screw terminals on the board so tracing the wiring is possible even if the colours are all muddled up. The drawing is a bit squidged in so best to do blown up photocopy of the relevant part or draw yourself so there is scribble room.

There is a pretty comprehensive compendium of data and circuits relating to the Erskine driver unit on the Bridgeport Yahoo group. You will need to sign up as its in the members only files section but its kept updated as new information surfaces and has feedback from members who have successfully repaired theirs. About the only major omission that I'm aware of is the pulse transformer specifications so its not currently possible to find an off the shelf replacement. If the pulse transformer is blown it looks as if professional repair is needed. BTJ Drives & Controls Limited, Stone Heath, Leigh, Stoke on Trent, Staffordshire, ST10 4PG, 01889 505315, **LINK** , say they can fix them.

Clive.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

I have had problems when at work that turned out to be a sticky rapid traverse button. Worth a look ? I am getting tempted to remove the traverse set up from my Bridgeport and replace it with a 240v version because I do not know how to wire it up now the machine is running on a VFD so I only have motor control.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Chris

Check the input tappings on the big transformer in the main electrics box. Most UK built 6F/8F power feed equipped machines with Erskine or Quinton Crane control boards have transformer inputs marked 20 – 0 – 220 – 380 – 440 volts. Standard is 0 – 440 over two of the hot 3 phase lines. To run things off single phase input just connect across 0 – 220. Gives 110 volts for the power feed and control contactors et al without any other wiring changes. Could connect 20 – 220 if you really have 240 volts single phase but I believe that these days our nominal 240 volts is actually harmonised to European 220 volts. Anyway the odd few volts extra if you did put 240 volts in on 0 – 220 connections hardly matter.

I'm glad I didn't know it was that easy when I contemplated going single machine VFD or I'd never have splashed out on my whole shop plug'n play set-up which, in retrospect, was well worth the (painful) expense as it made life so much easier for subsequent machines.

Clive.

[john fletcher 1Participant @johnfletcher1]

Its only the control circuit which is 110 volt NOT the entire machine. So when you went for the VFD you weren't wasting your money.John

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Clive, thanks for the info I will look into that. I did have the traverse working when I hooked the mill up to a Transwave static converter but the mill would only run for around 7 or 8 mins. and then stop. A friend wired the VFD for me and it has been perfect since. If I can use the existing set up it will save me £280 for the 240 volt traverse.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Clive, I have had a look in the cabinet and you are correct. It is at present wired on 0-440.

As the motor is now wired directly to the VFD is it really as simple as feeding 220/240 volt supply to the transformer ? If so is it sensitive to live and neutral, I would connect the earth to one of the existing earth points. As you can see I am not happy working on more than spurring off a socket to add another. Chris.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Chris

Yup it really is that simple. Either pull the 0 – 440 connections off, tuck them out of the way and connect the single phase mains across the 0 – 220 connections with new wire and a suitable switch or re-jig the existing wires keeping the disconnector on the electrical box lid in circuit.

Not being a fan of modified electrics I'd go the all new route making it obvious what has been changed. Probably easier anyway. Neutral goes on the 0 V terminal, live on the 220. Strap the earth lead down to one of the provided connectors. Ideally use a single double socket to feed the VFD and the transformer. I like to have a good earth strap off the machine body too. IEC "kettle lead" sockets are a decent way of handling moderate power single phase loads without trailing cables. Put one on mine in rotary convertor days to take 240 V in to run the DRO and work light as the DRO in particular didn't like sharing power via the converter. My electrical box took a deal of cutting into. Good steel.

Need to disconnect the coolant pump or do the capacitor trick to run it off single phase.

Clive.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Clive, thanks for the response. I will try that out, I only require the 110 volt output for the traverse and I will disconect the 50 volt lighting as well now I run 240 volt machine light.Chris.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Clive, I have wired the Bridgeport traverse to the 0/220 tapping on the transformer and it briefly worked. After a very short time the motor started smoking and stopped. Removing the brushes revealed oil contamination so I have stripped and cleaned the motor, it will still not run but we are on the right track. Time to get my mate over with his AVO and see what is going on. Chris.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Chris

Oh bovver. Boards are pretty tough so should be OK. When I first got mine it did the run for a moment then smoke thing. Motor turned out to be so jammed up with old carbon that it would barely turn with a spanner and brushes in just about reach commutator state.

Have you got the Erskine checks document off the Yahoo group files? If you haven't motor field resistance should be 500 ohms and armature resistance about 100 ohms. Its important that there are no shorts to earth. Taking either connector 8 or 9 on the board to earth is pretty much the only instant board killer. Most fails are simple component age out. Any other overloads will take out a fuse or pop the current limit device first unless an output end component is close to failure due to old age or other reasons. If the current limit has popped push the red button down again. May need a twist too. I don't exactly know procedure because there are no instructions in any document I've seen and its never happened to me.

Unless you are very sure that all is good its probably a good idea to pull the external connection strip from the board and verify that there are no shorts to earth on any pin with the machine and motor sir all wired up. Check number 1 on the Erskine document and they should know. If yours is a Quinton Crane built controller the actual circuit is a little different to the Erskine one but all the data appears to be the same. Far as I can see some of the figures are direct copy.

If the motor, brushes and commutator are good the naked motor should turn slowly on 12 volts or so DC. May need a helping twist to start. Mine spun OK off the high range on my "home upgraded" car battery charger which pumps out 6 amps at 15V on top range. Case says Winfield, a cheapy got long ago from Woolworths, but these days its about as original as a silhouette class dragster!

Clive.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Thanks Clive, I will wait until my auto electrician mate is over to check it for me. These things go over my head !

[richard heardParticipant @richardheard]

Hi thank you all for your input I have now checked the wiring and all seems to be o/k other than the erskin board which as not got any voltage across n/o 6@7 which should be variable between low volts to 100 volts and when power is on r/6 @ r/7 resistors get hot within 20 seconds or so to hot to touch so problem must be on the board thank you all again regards Richard

[Neil Henderson 1Participant @neilhenderson1]

Hello all is the wiring diagram for control board still about, Erskine, PD/1114/01/B please.

[Neil Henderson 1Participant @neilhenderson1]

OK, found one at the back of our manual.

[Author]

Posts