Posted by Roger Head on 31/03/2016 01:53:58:
Posted by Robin Graham on 31/03/2016 00:34:36:
… it ran sweet before I stored it. I'll just have at it with a boring bar or reamer or summat..
I hope that was said in jest, Rob. I'd be looking a lot harder and further before thinking about bringing a tool any where near it.
No doubt you have confirmed that the table moves smoothly with the worm disengaged (or, in your case, removed
).
Roger
Well, part in jest Roger, part in frustration. I'm actually wanting to make some raised panel doors, for which purpose a router table would be good, but I haven't got one, can't afford a decent commercial version, and anyway prefer to make stuff myself when I can. So I'm making a router table to make some doors. Now I have to fix a rotary table to make a router table to make some doors! Grrr! I just want to get on with the doors!
Wise counsel from you and IanT has prevailed – take a step back and figure out what's actually going on before wading in. After satisying myself that bore was clean, ie corrosion wasn't the problem, I blued the shaft and pressed it back into the bore (it was that tight). It was possible, if difficult, to turn it , but I did, and when it came out it was clear where it was binding. So I had at (read 'gently addressed'
the offending area of the with wet 'n' dry on a stick as suggested by Pete. Result! I't's now working again. I have no idea how this happened, but it's sorted.
Michael W – I had the same problem when I bought the table, the thrust plate on the bottom wasn't properly adjusted, but in this case it's deffo the worm gear assembly that's at fault.
Thanks to all for your contributions, Robin