Cleaning up a bore in CI

Cleaning up a bore in CI

Home Forums Beginners questions Cleaning up a bore in CI

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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  • #232012
    Robin Graham
    Participant
      @robingraham42208

      Today I took my Vertex RT out of mothballs after about 18 months storage – it was very stiff. Turned out that the bore in the piece (which looks like machined CI) that carries the worm is slightly corroded – Lord knows how as it was all oiled up before storage, and the shaft on the worm is still smooth and shiny..Anyhow, it is so.

      Any suggestions as to how to remedy this? I've got ideas of course but it could be an expensive (by my standards) learning experience if I end up knackering it completely, so any advice would be welcome.

      Regards Robinvertexrtspindle.jpg

      #8074
      Robin Graham
      Participant
        @robingraham42208
        #232017
        Ady1
        Participant
          @ady1

          Malt vinegar munches rust. Scrub with a toothbrush etc, then rinse and dry

          Dunking for an hour may be necessary, you'll need to judge it yourself

          #232019
          Hopper
          Participant
            @hopper

            Bit of green Scotchbrite and some WD40 should do the trick.

            #232595
            Robin Graham
            Participant
              @robingraham42208

              Thanks for advice both – have vinegared and scrubbed, the bore looks clean now, but it's still binding. I don' t understand what's happened, it ran sweet before I stored it. I'll just have at it with a boring bar or reamer or summat.. If it goes horribly wrong, I could actually remake the part – it would take me a while, but I'd learn from the experience!

              Rob

              #232599
              Roger Head
              Participant
                @rogerhead16992
                Posted by Robin Graham on 31/03/2016 00:34:36:

                … it ran sweet before I stored it. I'll just have at it with a boring bar or reamer or summat..

                I hope that was said in jest, Rob. I'd be looking a lot harder and further before thinking about bringing a tool any where near it.

                No doubt you have confirmed that the table moves smoothly with the worm disengaged (or, in your case, removed wink ).

                Roger

                #232602
                Peter Krogh
                Participant
                  @peterkrogh76576

                  Robin, for light use like you need on that part I use a wood dowel with a slot in the end and a bit of fine emery strip wrapped around. Chucked in a drill motor, or even hand spun, it will polish up a bore nicely. A loose wrap works best.

                  Pete

                   

                  Edited By Peter Krogh on 31/03/2016 04:20:01

                  #232603
                  Brian H
                  Participant
                    @brianh50089

                    A small 3 legged hone would do the trick. These can be bought cheaply from ME suppliers or local car accessory shop.

                    #232619
                    MW
                    Participant
                      @mw27036

                      I wouldn't normally intervene because i can barely remember how i fixed this now but i bought a similar rotary table a while back and had the same problem, initially dismantled to clean up and upon reassembly the whole thing was dead stiff, i think i can remember it may have not been the mechanism itself but the plate that holds the rotary table together on the back was bolted up too stiff, just loosened by a few turns and it was working again.

                      Michael W

                      #232622
                      IanT
                      Participant
                        @iant

                        Robin – having in the past (mistakenly) 'gone' at things before I really understood what the real problem was, I have sometimes done more harm than good. I try to be more cautious in my approach these days

                        Whilst it's always hard to advise without seeing/touching the item – I would suggest that a little more investigation to try to find where the binding is occurring would be a good idea. Some blue marker might help here. Could the table have been dropped (even in it's box) or had something dropped on it for instance?

                        In my experience – if the table moved smoothly before and the "corrosion" was slight – then cleaning should have done the trick. So I think it worth checking if the binding is caused by something else before you get too enthusiastic in your repair efforts

                        Regards,

                        IanT

                        #232634
                        Clive Foster
                        Participant
                          @clivefoster55965

                          Slight corrosion in one area that should have been well protected by oil suggests that there may be similar issues in other places. Time for a careful strip down and good clean up everywhere. With appropriate attention to any areas where the need to meet an affordable price may have prevented the sort of detail fitting and fettling that makes a high end, highly expensive, rotary table that much nicer to use.

                          I've seen this sort of inexplicable internal corrosion before on things put away for store. I imagine there is some sort of local contamination of either oil or the parent material letting causing the corrosion. If the item is in regular use I guess the corrosion products tend to be swept away and distributed. Hopefully collecting in a safe nook or cranny away from bearing areas.

                          Clive.

                          #232750
                          Robin Graham
                          Participant
                            @robingraham42208
                            Posted by Roger Head on 31/03/2016 01:53:58:

                            Posted by Robin Graham on 31/03/2016 00:34:36:

                            … it ran sweet before I stored it. I'll just have at it with a boring bar or reamer or summat..

                            I hope that was said in jest, Rob. I'd be looking a lot harder and further before thinking about bringing a tool any where near it.

                            No doubt you have confirmed that the table moves smoothly with the worm disengaged (or, in your case, removed wink ).

                            Roger

                            Well, part in jest Roger, part in frustration. I'm actually wanting to make some raised panel doors, for which purpose a router table would be good, but I haven't got one, can't afford a decent commercial version, and anyway prefer to make stuff myself when I can. So I'm making a router table to make some doors. Now I have to fix a rotary table to make a router table to make some doors! Grrr! I just want to get on with the doors!

                            Wise counsel from you and IanT has prevailed – take a step back and figure out what's actually going on before wading in. After satisying myself that bore was clean, ie corrosion wasn't the problem, I blued the shaft and pressed it back into the bore (it was that tight). It was possible, if difficult, to turn it , but I did, and when it came out it was clear where it was binding. So I had at (read 'gently addressed&#39 the offending area of the with wet 'n' dry on a stick as suggested by Pete. Result! I't's now working again. I have no idea how this happened, but it's sorted.

                            Michael W – I had the same problem when I bought the table, the thrust plate on the bottom wasn't properly adjusted, but in this case it's deffo the worm gear assembly that's at fault.

                            Thanks to all for your contributions, Robin

                            #232753
                            Roger Head
                            Participant
                              @rogerhead16992

                              Good result Robin!

                              Roger

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