Super glue

This topic has 16 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 6 January 2013 at 21:04 by Sub Mandrel.

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26 December 2012 at 11:35 #107176
Phil H 1
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@philh1
I am trying to hold some small brass angle parts onto 1/8" thick steel frames for drilling/ riveting. I would normally try to use toolmakers clamps etc but I have heard that super glue does an excellent job. If anybody has had success with this method –

1. What type do I buy i.e., is it just ordinary DIY stuff?

2. Can you easily break the bond if the parts are incorrectly positioned?

3. Are there any significant drawbacks/ snags with this method?

PhilH
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26 December 2012 at 11:35 #6493
Phil H 1
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@philh1
26 December 2012 at 11:49 #107179
Gray62
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@gray62
The best 'superglue' I have found is from Hafix. Provides a super strong bond and keeps for years in the fridge.

They also do an accelerator and a remover (useful for fingers) for releasing bonded parts.

Used it recently to repair a chip on a granite fireplace

Seasons Greetings

CB
26 December 2012 at 11:57 #107180
Terryd
Participant
@terryd72465
Hi Philip,

1) I use ordinary cheap pounshop cyano acrylate (superglue) for locating parts for rivetting and drilling etc. I locate the parts then let capillary action attract the liquid glue into the joint, it doesn't need to be perfect for a temporary job. If you feel the need to take time to adjust parts yiou can use the gel type which takes longer to set or even the long time setting types which use an accelerator to finally set the glue.

2) The bond will break down at relatively low heat, so you can simply heat the job to release parts if you find inaccuracy, relocae and re-fix

3) I have used the method for many years and haven't really had a problem when fastening metals.

I use it to hold parts together when I need to transfer holes accurately from one part to another such as when making toolmakers clamps and a low heat will release them after drilling.

Best regards

Terry
26 December 2012 at 12:28 #107181
Springbok
Participant
@springbok
i do use superglue occasionally for a temp bond ordinary from tesco or anywhere near, Drill your first hole and bolt, now use your DRO to drill the holes, ensure that there is a bit of sacrificial under job to protect the vice, drill all your holes if is to be countersunk also do this at same time, OK needs a tool change but you get perfect distance between holes, to release a light tap or if you are unhappy with this some boiling water will do it for fingers warm tap water will do it. once riveted file and fine grit to linish. Phil Have built a number of loco's from 3.5 to 7.25 if you get the bond wrong first time that I have a light tap will break the bond, clean up SG and try again. if you can put bits in vice to bond.

Have a good new year in the workshop.
Bob
26 December 2012 at 12:35 #107182
Chris Trice
Participant
@christrice43267
Generally, all the above is true but a small item of brass is likely to 'let go' if the hole you're drilling is of any size. You'd be better off arranging to soft solder the item in place. Like superglue, once drilled, you can release the bits again by reheating. If you want to go the glue route, abrade the surfaces you're going to glue first to provide a key. Don't forget epoxy either which will give you positioning time and can also have the bond broken by heating.
26 December 2012 at 12:40 #107184
Chris Trice
Participant
@christrice43267
It might also be worth considering drilling a smaller pilot hole through the parts and opening them up once sparated again. Drilling holes generates a lot of heat which is likely to destroy any nearby glue bond.
26 December 2012 at 14:26 #107189
Siddley
Participant
@siddley
I don't know what I would do without the stuff, I have used it for years. Just the cheapo pound shop glue, nothing special.

I have found that all caveats mentioned above regarding the bond breaking down need to be taken into account.

A flat scraper is what I use to get rid of the glue residue afterwards.
26 December 2012 at 14:37 #107190
Phil H 1
Participant
@philh1
Thanks guys – great tips.

This sounds like a really good method to get parts aligned properly – a Eureka moment I think.

I sometimes find that toolmakers clamps rotate the parts slightly when the screws are tightened, tilt and lift the parts so the is a tapered gap or obscure some of the holes that you are trying to transfer. Oh.. and the clamp screws get in the way when you are trying to position the parts under the drill.

The holes are for 3/64" rivets so I think the glued parts will stay stuck whilst drilling but I will glue, drill one hole and push a rivet in to ensure the positions are maintained before drilling the other holes.

I'll see what they have got at somewhere like B&Q.

Thanks.

PhilH
26 December 2012 at 17:28 #107195
Chris Trice
Participant
@christrice43267
Drill without forcing the pace and watch for when the drill breaks through the first part into the steel plate below. That's when it's likely to lift. Take the pressure off as it breaks through. Keep the drill rpm's up for the size of drill. Slightly too fast is better than too slow in this case and obviously make sure your drills are sharp.Try a Radio Control Model Shop for superglue in good quantity at a reasonable price.
26 December 2012 at 17:55 #107196
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
Old toolmakers method was coat one part with glue, PVA although more modern works very well, then lay a piece of cartridge paper on, coat this with glue and position the last part.

Allow to dry and you can machine away, handy for thin disks in the lathe with the paper between the disk and the face plate.

Soak in boiling water to remove.

John S.
26 December 2012 at 22:32 #107206
Anthony Knights
Participant
@anthonyknights16741
I have found super glue to be very good at gluing almost anything together except the parts you are attempting to fasten together.
26 December 2012 at 23:29 #107209
speelwerk
Participant
@speelwerk
In order to get the best bond possible with super glue, or any other glue, surfaces need to be perfect clean and certainly no trace of oil or grease must be left.

Niko.
4 January 2013 at 23:13 #107928
Phil H 1
Participant
@philh1
Guys,

I bought a small tube of super glue liquid from B&Q (their own brand) and it was exceptionally successful.

I note your point Anthony and agree that up to now – I have previously found super glue to be absolutely useless in comparison to glues such as epoxy but I also agree with Niko about cleanliness. I degreased the surfaces with white spirits (the cleaner to hand) and it was also necessary to carry out a further wipe with a clean dry tissue before applying the glue. The parts held together during the drilling and riveting process and incorrectly positioned parts could be 'snapped' apart (before drilling of course) after being dunked in boiled water from the kettle.

I will post a few shots to show how useful the glue was. I will definitely be using super glue in future.

PhilH
5 January 2013 at 19:43 #107996
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
I bought a small tube of super glue liquid from B&Q (their own brand) and it was exceptionally successful.

Interesting, the Wickes version works well too.

perfect clean

Sometimes gluing two surfaces then breaking apart and removing the glue works well.

I had some interesting problems with gluing two types of aluminium alloy together. Both were freshly machined but on further machining both epoxy and superglue would not hold to one surface (but gripped the other tenaciously). In the end I did some extra roughening and go it all to stay with superglue.

Neil
6 January 2013 at 20:45 #108082
Phil H 1
Participant
@philh1
A shot of how the super glue helped. One of six axleboxes for my Northumbrian tender. All these small parts were glued together for the hole drilling and riveting steps.

PhilH
6 January 2013 at 21:04 #108083
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
Very nice!

Neil
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