Chuck repair/spares

Chuck repair/spares

Home Forums Beginners questions Chuck repair/spares

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  • #96975
    Wokauk
    Participant
      @wokauk

      I have just purchased a well used ML7 which has come with 4 chucks, 2 chucks are 4 jaw. Both these chucks have cracks at the corners of the chuck key sockets. Can you get replacement worm drives?

      One chuck is a 4" Burnerd on which the worm drives are easy to remove, but the worm drive seems captive on the 6" Prat.

      Both chucks are functional as is but I don't like the idea of bits flying off.

      Any thoughts or advice. Thanks Wokauk

      #6310
      Wokauk
      Participant
        @wokauk
        #96995
        colin hawes
        Participant
          @colinhawes85982

          My thoughts……….I have repaired 4 jaw independant chuck key holes by welding and I have also made new screws on the lathe. Note for beginners: The damage is caused by using the key to tighten or unscrew the chuck on its spindle. A spanner should be used on a jaw to do that.

          #96997
          Ady1
          Participant
            @ady1

            Broken worms seem to be quite a common issue

            For easy removal of a stuck chuck use a block of wood, engage backgear and rotate the belt spindle manually in a backwards direction

            I'm lucky because my Drummond has a handy grubscrew hole in the v-belt drive and I can put a thin bar into it to use for extra leverage

            #96999
            Ady1
            Participant
              @ady1

              stuckchuck.jpg

               

              …and the chuck magically peels off the spindle…

               

              Edited By Ady1 on 23/08/2012 12:29:04

              #97001
              Clive Foster
              Participant
                @clivefoster55965

                Welding cracked corners works well but you need to be in practice and have a steady hand. I found a cheapy mini diamond file set (freebee with an order from ArcEurotrade) very useful for cleaning up. Especially inside the square. But the ones I fixed were very badly mullered. On one I had to cut the remains of a key hole side completely off and weld a replacement side on so getting weld inside was almost inevitable.

                If stick welding a half decent inverter welder is a lot better than the old style buzz box for this sort of precise, low current, work as you can use rather lower settings and still get a clean weld. Flip side is the need to be much more positive when breaking the arc. My Fronius brand magic box will stretch the arc to 6 inches or more, even on quite low currents, if you are not decisive enough on the break. Allegedly the industrial rated inverters are much better performers than the low end DIY breed. Before using mine a practised welder friend claimed inverter welders were grossly overrated and no better then a basic buzz box. I had to be quite firm when ensuring that the welder stayed at home in my workshop!

                Clive

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