Spring steel strip

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Spring steel strip

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  • #29844
    Leszek Delag
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      @leszekdelag40763
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      #368918
      Leszek Delag
      Participant
        @leszekdelag40763

        Hello all, I have to replace a broken lever spring on a mechanism and am trying to find a suitable source of material. The spring steel is bent something like a “V” with a loop at the bottom to go around a dowel, is flat in section, measuring about 3/32” x 0.044” having a total length of approximately 4” when opened out. The section size is not vital, providing it is reasonably near and if anyone could point me in the direction of a possible source of material-preferably in the annealed state- I would be most grateful!

        Thanking you all in advance.

        #368927
        Maurice Cox 1
        Participant
          @mauricecox1

          A. J. Reeves stock it in various gauges, in 24inch lengths. I believe it is the annealed state, and will need to be hardened and tempered.

          #368938
          ronan walsh
          Participant
            @ronanwalsh98054

            You can use o1 or silver steel, full harden it by the usual heating to red heat, holding it for a few minutes and quenching. Then you can temper by putting the spring in a bath of lead and quenching.

            #368953
            Adam Mara
            Participant
              @adammara

              Sounds very much like the description of a rim lock spring. When I left work there was a assorted box of around 150mm lengths of steel for forming into lock springs. The works is closed until Tuesday, and I could find out then if they are still around. If they of interest, please PM me.

              #368961
              John Baron
              Participant
                @johnbaron31275

                Hi Guys,

                If you strip an old car window screen wiper blade apart you will find two, probably suitable strips of spring steel, one on either side of the rubber blade.

                #369020
                Tim Stevens
                Participant
                  @timstevens64731

                  Quenching in a lead bath does require fairly accurate control of the temperature of the lead. Clock springs were tempered (in the good ole days) by dipping the wound-up spring in linseed oil and burning it off. The oil evaporates at the required temperature. If I remember correctly. It might perhaps have been a different oil?

                  Cheers, Tim

                  Edited By Tim Stevens on 25/08/2018 18:47:08

                  #369054
                  Sam Stones
                  Participant
                    @samstones42903

                    Never having seen silver steel in flat sections (as suggested by Ronan), and no idea of how the spring is situated/fixed, I question if round wire could be used instead, i.e. piano wire available through model shops.

                    For the cross section which Leszek nominated, assuming the spring thickness is 0.044" and 0.094" is the width, my equivalent (moment of inertia) calculations suggest that a wire diameter of 0.061" is about right.

                    This was my 'change-of-direction' when I chose (calculated) 0.008" diameter guitar wire for the balance wheel spring of my clock, instead of the nominated flat wire 0.020" x 0.005".

                    Other than annealing for sharp bends, heat treat may be unnecessary.

                    Sam

                    #369065
                    Leszek Delag
                    Participant
                      @leszekdelag40763

                      Many, many thanks for all your kind replies everyone..it is so much appreciated!

                      Because of the nature of it, I have to use flat section instead of round-which would be so much easier! The loop wraps around a pivot and it lifts quite a substantial weight.

                      Am following up all the suggested sources and sending you a pm Adam-thank you.

                      Kind regards and thank you again..Leszek

                      #369096
                      JohnF
                      Participant
                        @johnf59703

                        Leszek, for supplies look ar M-Machine metals, they have 18 SWG spring strip 1/2” wide, to cut the narrow strip you need I would hold the strip in a vice then use a cold chisel to cut the 3/32 strip of the main piece, it will distort somewhat but it’s quite easy to rework to a flat strip again. I use this method a lot to cut trigger return springs.

                        John

                        #369326
                        Jon
                        Participant
                          @jon

                          Know exactly what your attempting to make, has to be done right, done many for the trade worldwide.

                          To go round the peg thats better done from solid by drilling and shaping up after some what near. The V should be from the flat state left oversize all dimensions, turned flat (folded) hammer forged and annealed then left to cool.
                          Then its cleaned up closer to final size leaving room for any tags and excess lengths removed. Also thinned down, V end hammered then cleaned up.
                          Now starts the hard work, the strenghts in the turn what you cannot get by cnc or wire cutting etc, both arms cleaned up and set to a profile by bending. Then hardened and tempered to suit steel used.
                          Clean up again and pull the spring up (filing in exact area) so both arms dont collapse, should come in even right in to the turn. Highly specialised probably only three people alive with the knowledge.
                          Easy part is the fitting.

                          #369367
                          Sam Stones
                          Participant
                            @samstones42903

                            How about a photograph to let us in on the secret? devil

                            Sam smile d

                            In chilly Melbourne.

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