Warco minimill OR SIEG Super X2 OR none of them ?

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Clive,

I've repaired many of these controllers in the past …..

things to check if you have a Dvm….

R17, should read 15k and should have 22v at one end of it, if it hasn't then either the 22v Zener or C19 is shorted or the resistor is open circuit.

Check you have 12v at ZD2, if not then check the 1.5k resistor upstream of it…

Usually one or more of these components fail, giving rise to a dead board.

Beware, the 0v connection …..mains is everywhere….

Let me know if I can help…

[Clive FarrarParticipant @clivefarrar90441]

 

Thank you all for your contributions to my problem ……………..

 

and the winner is Les.

I put a bulb across the motor feed and blow me I got a result. yet the motor would not run?

So i did a naughty and and stuck avo probes into the end of the live motor to touch the brush housings.

Voltage? yes but no running. Then the probe slipped touching the commutator and the damn thing spun over.

So no contact between the housing and the brush then the penny dropped. When i glued up the top cracked housing I also glued up the brass brush housings and must have insulated them.

Further investigation showed that I had pushed one below the surface of the bakelite housing and therefore it was not making contact. With a g cramp and bar i pushed it back into place and lo it all worked.

What a mucking fuppet I am .

So thanks to all for there help i am now almost sorted. The one remaining problem is the mains supply light.

It is blown and must have been what i heard go Phutt.

Its straight off the 230v supply and has a little resistor in its housing. Who can supply the necessary infor or alternative part info for me????

 

Thanks again and sorry it was a false trail but at least it saved me a bundle for now and having to work out how to fit the heavier alternatives.

 

Regards Clive

Edited By Clive Farrar on 20/01/2015 18:47:19

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

It will be a 90v neon with a 270k resistor in series….

might be easier to go to Maplins and buy a 240v panel lamp….

[Clive FarrarParticipant @clivefarrar90441]

Just been looking at maplins John and at £1.09 I think that might be the job.

I can cut the old bulb off and fit spade connectors to go straight on the lamp.

cheers Clive

PS hows the flying going?

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Clive,

sent you a message…..

[Jesse Hancock 1Participant @jessehancock1]

Hi Guys,

A heavy slap on the wrist for me for writing on here when in a bad mood. After all there are perhaps loads of people using Clarke kit and manage a much better job of it than me, because of their experience and training one assumes.

I must thank all of those who offered advice it has given me new heart to crack on.

I am still convinced of changing the Mill though since it is restricted so much as to throat and travel…is that X ? The problem with the chuck is just the tip of the iceberg, there are many other prroblems it has which I can't see an answer to. Best not raise them here since that's tantamount to hijacking the thread.

Jesse.

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

I know this is an old thread but ive had the warco j12-300 version of the mini mill for several years ,ive not used it an awful lot but i now plan on using it a bit more regularly and im in the process of fitting the taper roller bearing to the spindle and redo the belt drive conversion i did years ago .(i did a quick coversion which looks pretty naff and i didnt put any belt adjustment on it.).

Well today when i looked in the control box for the first time. Its fitted with a KB electronics control board as some have previously mentioned(probably a KBIC as i have one in another machine). What i did notice is that the motor is supposedly 550watt. But the plug in horsepower resister on the board which most KB electronic board have is only rated at 1/4 -1/3 HP . Why???? Also the motor only has three leads which are coloured blue/brown /earth like a normal mains cable. So from this i deduce either wrongly or rightly thats its not a normal DC motor but a universal motor??? Is this right and why the low value HP resister.

I should explain that im not too savvy with electrics.

Thanks Mark

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Mark,

First and foremost, the cable colours are of no significance…..the motor is a permag motor…..purely dc…..

Secondly the hp resistor marking is misleading.

Its value is based on the maximum current drawn by any load connected to the controller. The current setting pot is adjusted to accomodate a range of values to limit the safe working current of the controller.basically what happens, the motor is drawing say 2 amps as it drives a cutter, if the cutter becomes jammed, and the load current goes up, the controller reduces the power to the motor to prevent any further damage to either the motor or controller…..sort of an electronic fuse that is self re-setting….the adjustment of the pot is covered in the KB manual, but needs some test gear…

I wouldnt worry….but dont quote me…lol!

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

Still a little confused as i though the HP resister would be marked 3/4 at 550 watts .

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Some machine tools are rates as input power, others as output power.

Just as with hifi amps, in some cases the difference can be significant in others not worth noticing.

Neil

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

It has been working without hiccups since i got it ,so i shouldnt worry about it, just thought a little strange.

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