Rob Roy Build/ Rally

[Phil H1Participant @philh196021]

Rex, Thanks for the prompt answer. If yours has lasted 30 years, that is good enough for me. I'll skip the case hardening.

I can fix some of the parts. For example, the expansion links are gauge plate and were noticeably hard. I heated up to bright red and cooled as slowly as possible before drilling the various holes in them. They are both now harder than the other mild steel parts but I suspect less brittle than they were. I will leave them in that condition and use gunmetal or bronze for the die blocks rather then the suggested mild steel.

Hmm – not that far from a running chassis excluding the pumps.

Phil H

[Phil H1Participant @philh196021]

I have a question about the Rob Roy ashpan. I bought, the stainless steel, laser cut ashpan from ME laser. The drawing has a dump pin to allow the ashpan to drop but it looks like it will be a very tight awkward fit – specially around the rear axle. So my question is really how easily the pan drops out and if I fit the boiler, can the ashpan really be slotted up into position whilst the rear axle is in place?

Thanks.

[Rex HanmanParticipant @rexhanman57403]

The short answer is it's a pain! With the pin pulled out I have to poke and prod it with the pin to get it to drop.

That's the easy bit, getting it back in is worse. I have found the easiest way to get it back in is to lay the engine on its side on a towel. Insert the firebars and then wiggle the ash pan back in until the pin can be inserted.

I can't see an easy way to improve things. You will probably need to cut lots of holes in the side and front of the ashpan to improve the air flow.

[Phil H1Participant @philh196021]

Thanks Rex, sounds like fun. Ian did warn me about Rob Roy maintenance issues at the rally but I bet that most of the other engine designs are a bag of maintenance delights also.

Phil H

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