Headstock Morse Taper Runout

[James Jenkins 1Participant @jamesjenkins1]

Hi all,

I was testing my Drummond Lathe yesterday, as I want to try and tune it a little to get the best out of her. I tested the bed, which only had 0.0005" variation over the 13" length of silver steel I chucked up, which didn't seem to bad. It was mainly in the middle, where the saddle is used most.

However, I did find that the head-stock 1MT socket has about 0.002-3" run out. I tested it with three different tapers and got fairly consistent results. What's your suggestion as the best way to fix this?

I also tested the bearings and found 0.005" of upward play, so obviously that needs fixing urgently. I will fit the second thrust bearing at the same time.

Any thoughts on the 1MT socket?

Many thanks,

James

[James Jenkins 1Participant @jamesjenkins1]

[James Jenkins 1Participant @jamesjenkins1]

Just seen the Morse Taper reamers you can get, if I check adjustment of the tailstock could this be a good way to go (obviously with very gentle use)?

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi James I have an M type Drummond and wouldn't do anything to the taper other than clean up with a morse ream to smooth any bumps and dings as the ream will follow the original taper. You must check and adjust the spindle bearings and fit the secondary thrust bearing. If you have a pair of V blocks check the bearing diamiters for wear in relation to the other diameters and the Morse taper before you do anything drastic. I had wear on my spindle and I had a friend to get it ground chrome plated and reground to original size.

David

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by James Jenkins 1 on 23/06/2018 09:22:58:…

…I also tested the bearings and found 0.005" of upward play, so obviously that needs fixing urgently. I will fit the second thrust bearing at the same time.

Any thoughts on the 1MT socket?

…

You need to get rid of the play in the headstock bearings before you can make any meaningful measurements of the bed or taper socket runout etc. If its an M type Drummond, adjustment is described on the Yahoo Drummond Group page, in the files section. It is a simple procedure.

I would not worry too much about the taper socket run out. Maybe a reamer given one or two turns to remove any burrs and see how that affects your readings. But you rarely use the spindle taper socket for anything, so it does not matter if it runs out. Even turning between centres, you use a soft centre and turn it true every time you use it, or on the Drummond with gap bed its best to hold a soft centre in the chuck and turn it true and use a bent drive dog to use the chuck to drive the job.

Running a reamer down an out-of-true hole will generally not make it run true. The reamer follows the existing hole, so if it starts wonky, it ends wonky.

I fitted a second thrust bearing to my M-type that was already performing satisfactorily and found no difference in its performance so am not sure what benefits it might bestow.

Edited By Hopper on 23/06/2018 10:39:36

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello James,

As Hopper says, get the bearings right first, then deal with the socket. I think you will find it has a minor dinge to remove and a turn or two with a tapered reamer used by hand will whip that out. It would not have been sent out from the factory with run out error of that magnitude in which case it is due to later damage and if I am any judge it will be near the open mouth

Regards Brian

[James Jenkins 1Participant @jamesjenkins1]

Hi all,

I am going to reply to the spindle bearing question in the old thread, as that will hopefully be more helpful and keep the thread title appropriate.

However, I totally appreciate that I need to get that sorted before worrying about the headstock taper.

Many thanks,

James

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