Stuart Castings

Stuart Castings

This topic has 5 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 25 May 2014 at 09:46 by John Olsen.

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23 May 2014 at 20:06 #153303
Steve Withnell
Participant
@stevewithnell34426
I've just started on some Stuart kits I have (my post on the James Coombes) and noticed a marked difference in the quality of the castings. The Victoria castings were very nice. On the left the casting is from the Victoria c 2008. The photo shows how much smoother the finish is than the one on the right, from the James Coombes kit about 2010. (Been in a box under the bench…)

Here is a photo of the cross-head guides – these are quite rough too –

I've just bought a boxbed and base for a D10 and again the finish is pretty rough.

Have I just got a bad batch or have Stuart turned down the quality ?

Steve
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23 May 2014 at 20:06 #23314
Steve Withnell
Participant
@stevewithnell34426
23 May 2014 at 20:22 #153305
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I think they did stop using shell moulding for a time and that may explain the difference.

J
24 May 2014 at 17:28 #153412
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
It's not just Stuarts who have variable quality. The two castings below are from the same pattern and same supplier. At the time I bought them, I didn't know what a good casting should be like and accepted the one on the left. Machining it all over wasn't a success and the replacement I bought needed very little work (except replacing the bosses.

Neil
24 May 2014 at 17:34 #153414
Steve Withnell
Participant
@stevewithnell34426
Well I've spent the afternoon in the workshop and have machined the portface of the cylinder and the steam outlet. The good news is, that it machines very nicely and scrubs up well, despite the rough finish.

Steve
25 May 2014 at 09:46 #153483
John Olsen
Participant
@johnolsen79199
If the unmachined areas look too rough you could use a little filler before painting, as was often done in full size practice. Otherwise, you can clean things up a bit with a diamond burr in an air die grinder or a Dremel.

John
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