Warco BH600G Modifications (clutch, gears, 3 phase)

[OuBallieParticipant @ouballie]

Michael, Michael, Michael, dear me

Just too early in the year for such delectable daftness.

Geoff – Love it though

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

There is a proper name and its sitting at teh back of my consciousness where I can't reach it…

Neil

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I had to remember where I read it – Inchanga's 20 years of a Rong Fu Mill, then to the index, then to the magazine…

Leaf screw!

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 17/01/2016 10:54:12

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Ah the delectable Chinglish of the Wrong-Fu mill handbook.

 

"Please to not place in the sunshine room "

 

Best one though was in a parts list for a press.

Part № # 12345 Water Buffalo

 

???????????????? WTF ?????

Go to the illustrated parts list and all is clear.

 

They mean Hydraulic Ram !!!

Edited By John Stevenson on 17/01/2016 11:56:42

[egaParticipant @ega]

The difference being that you can milk a buffalo but not a ram.

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

There are a few things that will be doing to the lathe as i go belt drive for normal feed is one thing as well as a screw cutting clutch. Im also thinking about a 3 phase motor conversion with inverter (if any one could recommend one or has one for sale )

I can't find a leaf screw Neil?? Searched google and all that comes up are lead screws going over to cromwell tomorrow so hopefully they can advise or get hold of one, failing that i will make my own or modify the existing arrangement.

In the mean time before i go as far as clutches and motors does anyone have advise on my collet chuck?

Regards, Steve

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Steve,

What about a ratchet handle as shown in Nigel's first picture ?

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

Sadly that wouldn't work for this particular application, i originally purchased one of those however there isn't enough clearance… if you look at my 3rd photo you can just about make out the grub screw… you will notice there is almost no room for anything other than one of these "leaf screws"

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The leaf screw looks easy enough to make. 10mm bar reduced to 8mm and threaded M8. cut a slot in teh 10mm part and cross drill for a pin. File up a leaf and drill pin hole. Assemble the two, slip in a pin and pein over the ends. Should have it made in half the time it takes to get to Cromwells

J

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

Hi J, think thats what i am going to do… i just need time and sadly time is something i don't have enough of. Tomorrow i hope to do some more to the lathe. There are a few issues i want to address, collet chuck run out being the biggest.

I have asked the question a few times now however no one has answered as of yet, i have decided that i need to re visit it. I remember from last time i put the chuck on it didn't look as if it was running true, i remember i clocked the silver steel and it was out but i can't remember how much by so I'm going to try and get my head around it tomorrow. If i have time i am going to make a leaf screw as well however that is more a want than a need. The grub screw works perfectly well i just thought a leaf screw would be easier. I have decided i want to sort all these small niggly jobs out first then its on to the big stuff such as the clutch and belt mod. But i will be updating as i go

Steve

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

"I remember from last time i put the chuck on it didn't look as if it was running true"

Did you mark the backplate to make sure that it goes back in teh same place each time?

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

Hi J, Yeah the back plate is all in as it should be… initially i machined the back plate so it was a shrink fit but when i clocked it the chuck was really out, as much as 0.5mm so i decided to separate them and skim some more of the black plate so it was a "loose fit" i put quote marks around it as it was still a snug fit but with slight play. I then bolted the chuck back up and chased it round with a soft hammer until i was getting close. The problem is i don't know whats actually out this might sound daft but i don't want to be chasing my tail around for accuracy if i don't have anything accurate enough to prove my findings. For example my clock is only a cheap axminster DTI and reads in 0.01mm (not sure if thats accurate enough) but the silver steel i have is some i picked up from a metal merchant that had it on a shelf in the back of a factory so how accurate is that?

Also my DTI fluctuates, sometimes when i spin the chuck the DTI doesn't appear to move then if i rock the chuck the the clock flickers, then it will jump then it won't??? So I'm not that impressed with that. But is that the clock or is that the chuck/ silver steel? I have added some photo's to show the 0 point and the furthest the clock has traveled. Just getting so frustrated!

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

Please let me know if i am being to harsh on my equipment. I know this is hobby kit and I'm not machining parts for aerospace but the way i look at it is if there is unacceptable run out on a collet or my measuring equipment is inaccurate then how am i going to machine to an accurate tolerance? Im just trying to get an idea of what is acceptable and should i settle for that will do?

Regards, Steve

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

Forgot to add these as well sorry chaps…. But this shows what happens when it jumps (admittedly its further away from the chuck) But should i expect it to be this far out over such a short distance? Were probably only talking 4"?

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Steve,

I see that you are using what I call a 'Watchmker's Style' collet; so I have to ask … What is the actual diameter of the silver steel test bar ?

As discussed on the recent 5C collet thread; they are strictly 'one size' and if the bar is undersize it will only be gripped at the front of the collet, and will therefore be free to rock. … and similarly; if he bar is oversize, it may be gripped inside the colet, and rattle loose at the front [and it may wreck the collet].

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 19/01/2016 19:38:37

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Possibly the mount rather than the indicator. Also it looks like the base is on the cross slide which you might have nudged, or it might just move under the pressure of the indicator. Try arranging it to indicate the movement of the cross slide and experiment with small movements of the handwheel.

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

Hi Michael, interesting read regarding the 5c collets i had no idea the stock going to be had the be exactly the right size, lesson learnt from now on! However in this case i made sure that i got a piece of 1/2" silver steal to marry up to my 1/2" collet.

Regards to your post Bazyle, what do you mean about the mount? Are they not a stable base? If this is the case i can swap my base as i have just picked an eclipse one up for a tenner! So I'm really chuffed with that, might give that a go tomorrow? I don't think i nudged the wheel however that would make sense?

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Best tip I had about these bases was from John S. Replace the rod with the omega-spring in it with a rigid rod, the whole thing will suddenly become more accurate.

Neil

[Steve Cole 1Participant @stevecole1]

Excellent i will swap the base tomorrow. Quick question regarding the clock its self, is it better in this situation to use a lever DTI or a Plunger type?

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