Removing Chucks

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

My chucks are screw on type,not always easy to remove,but since they have two little angle blocks clamping them to the spindle,I have no bother running them backwards.

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 27/10/2017 14:01:51:

Colin won't have enough space behind the studs to fit long nuts.

Get a bar of aluminium or brass that fits between end of stud and headstock.

Lever each stud gently forwards a touch, in turn while supporting the chuck with your other hand. It only has to move about 1mm to come free.

Don't be tempted to ease anything, the chuck may be what's tight rather than the register. A tight fit is good for accuracy, but it will ease slightly in time so a gentle tap with the base of your hand will probably be enough.

Neil

Actually I don't need to use long nuts. I have some scrap solid hardwood (from a previous project). I just need to make a thick shim that just fits behind the stud. Then unscrewing the nuts on the studs will give me about 5mm of "push" which is about the same length of the mandrel shoulder.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I have shown the jacking off method before as it is the method I use, there are pics in my album but for those who don't want to trawl through 1000 pics here they are again.

Bit of 1/4" flat brass to protect headstock

Just wind th enut off so it jacks the chuck away from the flange, you can then either carry on with the spanner of use the flat bar as a lever

As the spigot on a lot of teh far eastern machines is about 10mm long but you really only need a short length to keep things concentric why not also machine a slight taper into the backplate so most of the parallel hole no longer makes a tight press fit on the spindle

Just use one chuck to hold the other by having them both grip a thick bit of bar and clock them true

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

JasonB – please can we not use terms such as "jacking off" – but it is your method that I alluded to in my post above – glad to see I'm beginning to have the same ideas as the experts.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

A Mini lathe register is only about 2.5mm deep.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Like Larry Phelan, my chucks are screw fitting, and retained with two clamps that hook over the flange on the mandrel. These are not mini lathe size! (6 and 8 inch dia)

I have clamped a short piece of Silver Steel to a rectangular bar, and drilled a radial hole in each chuck so that the Silver Steel is snug fit. Having removed the clamps, and with the belt tight, the Silver Steel is inserted into the hole, before delivering a smart tap on the end of the rectangular bar with a mallet.

Rarely needs more than a couple of taps.

The bed way are protected by a wooden chuck board, carrying a block of wood with a radius to match the that of the chuck, in case the chuck slips and falls as it is unscrewed.

Howard

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 27/10/2017 17:26:10:

Like Larry Phelan, my chucks are screw fitting, and retained with two clamps that hook over the flange on the mandrel. These are not mini lathe size! (6 and 8 inch dia)

That would be the Super Adept?

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