Rebuilt ML7

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

So I joined the forums a few months ago and said I would post some pics of my first ever resporation project when complete. 1978 vintage, fairly well looked after, if a bit rusty in places. I replaced all the bushes, new shims on slideway parts. The slides were a bit rusty they were not worn, so just cleaned those up. New dials, oilers and reblacked most of the fittings.

Very enjoyable project and highly recommended if yours is looking a little tatty.

Still havent used it as waiting to get a quick change tool post. However problem is now I'm so so tempted to sell and buy a Super 7B to overhaul.

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

That looks a really nice job there. You have good reason to be proud of yourself.

Nick

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Hi Phil,

Yes a lovely job that mate, totally agree with Nick.

I like the cross and top slide dials. Did you make them?

geoff

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

Thanks chaps. Dials are the current offering from Myford, Resettable zero versions!

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

+1 Very nice restoration.

…and nice looking dials too – I was tempted to upgrade mine but at £41 each I'll be sticking with the zamak dials for a while yet.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Very nice indeed

there was a series of articles in ME many years ago by Geo. Thomas about how to make re-settable dials. Once you've used them you'll never go back, until that is you fit DRO then you never look at them again

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

Yes I did close my eyes when pressing add to basket. Bit too pricey , but hey ho got to spend it on something. My original dials were all flaking and chipped so needed changing regardless.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Very nice restoration ​; why get rid of it so soon, use it & enjoy for a while.

George.

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

Yeah I know what you mean. Emperor's new clothes syndrome I think, upgrading. I shall keep it for a while and keep eye out for a 7B to do up.. Loads of things on my to make list so no rush.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

If you have the space keep it and add a second lathe. Many is the time I wish I had a second lathe to save on multiple set up time.

[AJWParticipant @ajw]

Looking good! Why change it? Lots of good stuff made on the original before the super came along!
(Speaking as an ml7 owner!)

Alan

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

You make a lot of sense and I'm sure once I get to use the thing, I will soon forget about changing it, I know it inside out already so is foolish I know.

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Hi there, Phil,

Your restored lathe looks good.

Did you, as part of the restoration, remove the head-stock? If so, what procedure did you employ on refitting to ensure that the mandrel axis was true to the bed ways?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[Phil H1Participant @philh196021]

Phil,

Would you mind revealing how you cleaned up the rusty areas please. I have a Myford Super 7 which has various patches of rust type staining on the cross slide etc and you seem to have restored yours to a brilliant shine. What did you use?

Mine has quite a few blisters under the grey paintwork. Did you have the same problem?

Phil H

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

Hey there, so on the headstock question, yes it was removed. On refitting I stuck an MT2 test bar in the spindle and ran the clock up and down whilst sat on the saddle. Got it to within a 0.002" over 10" length after a while of gentle pottering.so was pleased with that. I appreciate though whilst cutting parts flex somewhat so you probably don't need to be quite so precise but I was brainwashed during my apprenticeship on being precise so can't beat it out of me. For the tailstock incidenlty, I just kept clock in same spot, and fitted test bar the other end and did the same. So in theory they should be centred on each other. When I get my toolpost, I can then do some cut tests as detailed in the myford book and adjust more if needed.

So for the rust I used I used dilute citric acid and then a brass wire brush on drill. For the slideways though I didnt want to be quite so aggressuve, so the bad spots I lightly used fine wirewool, then metal polish(Peek) on a drill mop. There wasnt any deep rust or pitting so did'nt feel it needed a regrind and now having rebuilt the saddle and reshimmed it, there is no play up/down or front/back along the bed length so am happy its all good. I'm not an expert but if I have no tight or sloppy areas of play, it must be good right? That was my thinking anway.

Yes had quite a bit of bubbling, so I just chipped those parts off, cleaned the surface & filled with car filler, sanded back flush with the good paint then primed over the top before resparying.

Hope that helps.

[Phil H1Participant @philh196021]

Phil,

Thanks for that. I might try the citric acid and brass brush on my vertical slide and if it works well – on the lathe slides. Also, the bubbled paint issue.

Thanks,

Phil H

[Phil BoylandParticipant @philboyland37326]

You may get away with just the wire brush. I had so much to do I thought it a better use of time to dunk everything whilst doing other things. Give it a whirl I guess and see how it comes up.

If you do use citric, there's loads of stuff online about mixing ratio's and immersion times. It's very slow acting so you won't have to rush. Bit smelly too so have good airflow. I bought a kilo of powder for a fiver I think I fleabay, so dead cheap.

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