Proxxon 150/E

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

Hi Guys,

I have purchased a Proxxon 150/E mini lathe for my model making…

Nice and small, as I like it.

Anyone used one? Just WHAT is that taper in the headstock??

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I think the spindle can take an ER 11 collet directly, just look up ER 11 collets to get teh sizes of the taper. It snot a standard Morse taper socket.

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

Yes the spindle is an ER11…

I calculate the tailstock is a morse taper MT0.. cut in half…

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

Well well well.

NOT impressed. Chucked some 25mm diameter Aluminium, and faced of OK. Put it between centres to be on the safe side. Had to keep tightening the motor grub screw as the motor turned but the chuck didn't. I've read this on other forums.

Took several light cuts to reduce the diameter – 0.2 – 0.3mm at a time. After half a dozen cuts, there was a loud bang and sparks flew out of the motor. End of story.

Emailed Axminster as it's still under 2 months warranty.

Edited By Stevo on 09/03/2014 15:38:08

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

2 months warranty? isn't 1 year mandatory in the UK?

BTW that is NOT a quick change toolpost as the advert claims.

Seriously try and get a full or even 70% refund. It is cute but I'm inclined to rate it below the Adept which was diss'ed somewhat on here last week. I think a used Unimat has a better pedigree and a Hobbymat MD65 though much heavier at 40kg is preferable.

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

It was from Axminster as a returned item. Apparently someone broke a handle off, although they were all there when I purchased it. New they ar earound £490 (ish) and this was £295. Hence the two months warranty.

Will explore the refund issue – and hopefully get a better one.

[Tim StevensParticipant @timstevens64731]

Bazyle asks: 2 months warranty? isn't 1 year mandatory in the UK?

No, sorry. We have a complex set of rules covering fitness for purpose (good if you state your requirements in advance) and merchantable quality (you can expect a screwdriver to be good for driving screws in the normal way, but not necessarily for opening tins or carving granite) and true to the description (marked High speed steel means what it says, etc). They cover second-hand (used) stuff and repaired stock such as Stevo has. Also, various rules about 'distance selling' ie by catalogue or internet, giving you a few days to say 'No, I don't want that' and return it. There are no specific UK laws covering the need to have a guarantee – but of course if there is one it must do what it says.

Hope that helps – Tim

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

I'll kep y'all posted !

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

Progress, eventually!

It was dropped back to Axminster, and heard nothing after 3 weeks. Emailed them, asking for an alternative. The only reply was that it is to be repaired and sent back. Emailed again to discuss options. No reply. Email followed that it had been repaired. Emailed again to discuss options – no reply.

Lathe arrived this morning, missing the original box and all the tools/handles/spanners necassary to operate it. I powered it up, it has had a new motor and power PCB fitted.

Left it running continuously for 6-7 minutes – did not machine anything at all. Noticed a burning smell. Shut it off straight away. Headstock was hot. Motor was too hot to touch.

Emailed Axminster again. 2 hrs later I received a call (but was unable to answer). An apologetic email followed offering me an immediate refund or an altarnative with a discount. They sadi it should never have been sent back to me without discussion!

May well exchange it for a Sieg C1,

Edited By Stevo on 09/04/2014 17:37:53

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

The tail stock taper is quoted as B10 x MK0/ Short, which from what I'v found so far is MT 0 short, the MK could be from the German. Ian S C

Morse Taper = Morse Kegel in German

Edited By Ian S C on 10/04/2014 12:13:35

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Ian S C on 10/04/2014 12:08:18:

Morse Taper = Morse Kegel in German

.

Useful info. Ian

Thanks

MichaelG.

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

Thanks..

Well, hopefully a resolution. I stated that I would like to keep the business with Axminster, and asked them for a price on a Sieg C1.

They replied – and offered me 10% off and threw in a Tailstock chuck for free. Can't argue with that!

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

More than double the swing, 4 times the weight, almost double the distance between centres

A proper lump o' cast,

result !!

Would the C0 not better match the Proxxon's size/capacity (although the C1 is certainly a nice compact size) also worth considering the similar overall size but larger capacity, and much larger motor Conquest Lathe from Chester or CJ18 from Amadeal – free postage on the Conquest too….

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Good idea to step up up to the C1 above the C0. Don't forget to get the changewheel set for screwcutting. Then you will want to make a mandrel handle as its lowest speed of 100 rpm is too fast for relaxed screwcutting.

[JoParticipant @jo]

Sadly only one of the Proxxon products I have purchased has not had electrical problems and friends who have also purchased them have had similar experiences.

So, however nice they might seem, I have stopped purchasing any more of their products.

Jo

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

It really is a daft state of affairs when all that stands between a good machine and a bad one is a few pence worth of quality controlled electronics.

One of the most reassuring things about my good old belt driven RF-20 is it's worked 1st time, every time for the last 25 years and I'm sure it will work for the next 25 too – no electronic controls, no messing – single phase to the motor, on/off and reverse – job done.

Edited By Russ B on 11/04/2014 09:47:24

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

My main interest is Scale RC aircraft, and electrics play an important part. For instance, we could have speed controllers for 'DC' motors carrying over 100A without issue; technically they are 3 phase motors with variable speed…

I have seen various posting on forums across the globe to do with speed control of lathe (and other) motors and of course problematic. As an electronics engineer by trade, it does have to be poor design. you should make the control circuits as bullet proof as possibe – and that's not that hard to do.

I did have a Proxxon micro wood lathe – again variable speed, and no problem with that at all. I have the micro router as well – no speed control. (I do have the the Proxxon small blow torch but I'm unable to find any speed control knob….)

Again, Russ B, no substitute for grunt, a nice 1/2HP motor and a couple of belts and we would always be somewhere near the correct speed.

I did have a pillar drill – 16 speed with intermediate shaft – I think I only ever used 3 or 4 speeds ! The one I have now is 5 speed – ang again that's all I need.

I'm looking forward to the C1, again many forums suggesting a bit of a strip down and rebuild with adequate and correct lubrication etc. I'll report back in due course.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Stevo,

I know this is a bit off-topic, but; given your interest in speed contollers for 3-phase "DC" motors … I'm sure there are several of us that would appreciate the benefit of your experience with these.

… Any chance of a few short notes for the innocent ?

MichaelG.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Just a note on the B10 taper mentioned above.

The B-series are DIN tapers used to mount drill chucks, like Jacob's Tapers.

What few people know is that B10 is the small end of an MT1 taper and B12 is the large end. B16 and B18 are the same for MT2.

This is why I was able to 'rescue' a chuck with a cut-up taper socket using the tip of an MT2 reamer.

More info HERE

Neil

P.S. I have received a draft of a DC motor controller article that will be useful to readers. I hope to publish the final version within a few months.

 

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 11/04/2014 17:42:29

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 11/04/2014 17:40:27:

What few people know is that B10 is the small end of an MT1 taper and B12 is the large end. B16 and B18 are the same for MT2.

This is why I was able to 'rescue' a chuck with a cut-up taper socket using the tip of an MT2 reamer.

More info HERE

.

Very useful information; thanks Neil

… I have to say though, that it's another sad reflection on the DIN standards.

The Jacobs Taper was carefully specified for Chuck mounting, to ensure that [being steeper] it would release before the Morse Taper at the other end. Now we are stuck [deliberate pun] with the same taper each end.

Ho Hum … there's progress for you.

MichaelG.

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

… Any chance of a few short notes for the innocent ?

Yep Off-topic but I don't mind

In short, the old style of brushed DC motor in RC has all but vanished with its associated speed controllers. In the interest of efficiency, they have all but gone over to three phase motors with associated speed controllers. These are driven by and small computer (PIC) and heavy duty parallel FETs to handle the current. However you will need a PWM input to control the motor but this can be done from a cheap servo tester.

Apparently some of the more expensive controllers have tacho feed back, in other words it will sense the motor slowing down under load and provide more power to keep the revs up.

This one consumes around 2Kw, and is obviouslty not cheap, and the RPM is quite high – too high for this hobby of course. And I would debate whether it would be continuously rated!!

However they do come a LOT smaller too. The beauty is that the speed control is very linear and smooth.

Me? I prefer a four stroke in all my planes!  

Here's a YouTube of brushless explanation…

 

 

Edited By Stevo on 12/04/2014 18:24:12

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Stevo,

Excellent, thanks

MichaelG.

[Terence Yates 1Participant @terenceyates1]

I had a Proxxon table saw. The claims were that it was highly accurate, the new one I bought was far from that. The blade was not even parallel to the guide and the blade could not be made to adjust to it's vertical position. Will never buy Proxxon again.

Terry.

[StevoParticipant @stevo]

Thank you YAK.

It does make you think, I've heard of the table saw problem many times in a sister forum. Agreed, there may be problems with any make, but it has severely dented my confidence in Proxxon – particulary when you leave a lathe running for 5 minutes, no load – and it all overheats!

Edited By Stevo on 12/04/2014 21:01:11

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