The ball handle never had any other fixing than friction against the lock nut (which is normally part of the micrometer dial). Shouldn't normally need anything more.
Possibilities:
1. The locknut/dial has become screwed up against the vertical unpainted plate, jamming the leadscrew which has a tiny shoulder and a fiddling little washer behind the plate. Slacken the locknut/dial off a bit. The ideal setting gives enough slack for the leadscrew to run nicely but not enough to give noticeable backlash in the cross slide.
2. The leadscrew thread hasn't been oiled in generations and/or is choked up with wood dust. Run oil in behind the micrometer dial. Use a spouty oil can to squirt oil up onto the leadscrew from underneath. This is easiest if you can run the cross slide out towards you as far as possible. The point where the thread enters the saddle casting is the most important.
3. Something has jammed the slides of the cross slide. When you slacken the side screws (gib adjusters) can you make side-to-side or twisting movements of the cross slide? The dovetailed ways should be oiled as well.
It's not difficult to dismantle the cross slide to check, clean and set up again. Take off the topslide assembly – one nut behind the toolpost. There should be a bolt in the quadrant slot, but it looks as though that is missing. Undo the screws in the vertical unpainted plate (that will be the most difficult bit without chewing up the slots. Us a proper meaty screwdriver). Unscrew the leadscrew assembly from the saddle. Slide the cross slide off the saddle, catching the gib strip before it falls on the floor. Make sure you mark the gib strip so you can put it in the same way again.
Ask again if it doesn't make sense!
George