My beaten up Myford

[Charles Smitheman 1Participant @charlessmitheman1]

[Charles Smitheman 1Participant @charlessmitheman1]

Hello, A newby here,

I have I think an Ml10 which I rescued from a civil engineers yard in Dar es Salaam some years ago, as one does. $125 was the outlay!

I have managed to do some minor jobs with it, but am struggling to do anything accurate. What happens when turning the cross feed is it moves in jerks, it seems to be binding on the bed and jumping forward, so it is impossible to do anything accurate. I have been searching for the correct lubricant to be used on the slides, perhaps if I dismantle and clean it up and re lubricate it it will improve.

I could try some chain bar oil that I have seen recommended by someone on this forum.

My objectives with the lathe at present is to make parts to repair old model plane engines, big end bushings and possibly piston rings if I get brave, for example.

Advice would be welcomed, do I use it as an anchor and buy something better, or is there a magic snake oil which will help?

I have just ordered Sparey's book on forumites recommendations….

Thanks,

Charles

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Good morning Charles. First of all, clean the slideways and give them a drop of oil. Personally, I don't think it makes much difference what sort, I use a lighter oil and would not advocate Chain Bar (Chain saw ??) oil as it is too 'sticky'. Next, check that your cutting tool is sharp and set on the centreline of the axis of the lathe – check against a centre placed into the tailstock . Check that the Gib screws are tight, but not so excessive as to making the slides too stiff. Then have a go at that and let us know how it goes for you.
BobH

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Charles,

I would first check the bed for wear

The ML10 is a good little lathe, but I was put-off buying one when I discovered that Myford [Beeston] did not consider the bed suitable for re-grinding.

… I will post a link to the article, when I can locate it.

MichaelG.

.

http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Used_lathe.html

Here's the punchline:

Note: It is not possible to do a full bed and saddle regrind on an ML10, Speed10, or Diamond 10 Lathe. At best the top of the bed can have 0.005in. (0.127mm) removed, a once only operation, so your visual inspection is crucial.

 

 

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 21/02/2018 08:49:49

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

I wonder if your crosslide leadscrew's bent, and the nut's loose in the slide?

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello Charles,

There could be many other things responsible for the symptoms you describe; I think it would a great deal more satisfactory for you to be a lot bolder and do a full strip and inspection and put the faults you discover right. You might then be inspired to extend the inspection to the whole machine, there could be other problems yet to be discovered.

After all, the poor lathe had been dumped in a country where even a dead grandmother might be regarded as trade goods in certain circles!

Kind regards

Brian

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Don't despair Charles – I've never had one but I understand that the ML10 is a sturdy little machine – and it probably just needs some kindness.

As Speedy suggests – first it sounds like you need to clean, oil and adjust your cross-slide. You want to get it as smooth as possible before you cut anything. If possible (in general terms) I like to adjust gib-strips without the feed screw in place, as you can slide the moving item too and fro and feel any stiffness. A light oil is all that is needed. I don't know if you can do this with the ML10 cross-slide/feed screw but it makes gib adjustment much easier if you can.

If you find it difficult to 'keep' the gib adjustment during or after adjustment – then it's possible the gib screws/piece will need some attention to stop them from moving out of adjustment – I cannot recall if the Sparey book covers this (or not). Come back here if you think this is a problem.

Once you have everything set as well as possible – then try facing again. If you can lock the saddle – then do so. Make sure that your tool is sharp and correctly set/angled (i.e. cutting rather than rubbing). Proceed slowly and see if things have improved. Try to change only one thing at a time – noting any improvement (or not). Sometimes several small problems can compound to give you a bigger one – and you need to be methodical.

Assume that your lathe (with your help and perseverance) is capable of good work until you can absolutely prove otherwise. Most importantly – do enjoy using your lathe!

Regards,

IanT

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Sounds like you need to pull the cross slide off and give it and the feedcrew etc a good cleaning and oiling with whatever oil is handy. Engine oil will work just fine to get you going. It's all I've used on my lathe for 50 years now. If the ML10 is the same as the ML7 in basic set-up, you just keep turning the feedscrew out until you can pull the cross slide off.

Then adjust the gib screws on the cross slide without the feed screw in place so the slide slides in and out easily with just a little bit of drag and no perceptible shake. When happy with its movement, put the feedscrew back in positon, but with the two allen screws holding the feedscrew bracket (the one next to the dial) to the cross slide done up just finger tight. Screw the feedscrew all the way in, until the cross slide is at the end of its travel. Then tighten up the two allen screws. This sets the feedscrew in line with the nut it engages with.

Check that the slide still moves in and out smoothly without jerking now. If it does, you may need to adjust the nut and handle to provide a little slack where the feedscrew fits through the bracket. It needs also to have just perceptible drag with no perceptible shake. Preferable to have a tiny little bit of shake rather than be tight, as with the gibs.

[RobinParticipant @robin]

I have the ML10. The biggest problem I find is cutting cast iron, the dust gets trapped between the bed and the saddle. I have all sorts of squeegees fitted trying to keep it out, but eventually it needs tearing apart, washing out with paraffin, particularly in all it's important little places, then reassembling with a quality lube. You can't wash it out without removing the saddle, how I have tried

I buy Myford slideway oil off ebay,

ISA VG 68 (FEBRIS K68)

Mobil Vactra No. 2 – 1 Litre

Whatever that lot means

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by IanT on 21/02/2018 09:36:04:

… I like to adjust gib-strips without the feed screw in place, as you can slide the moving item too and fro and feel any stiffness. A light oil is all that is needed. I don't know if you can do this with the ML10 cross-slide/feed screw but it makes gib adjustment much easier if you can.

…

If you can lock the saddle – then do so.

…

Assume that your lathe (with your help and perseverance) is capable of good work until you can absolutely prove otherwise. Most importantly – do enjoy using your lathe!

Regards,

IanT

On the Speed 10 I used to have (which I think is identical to ML10 in most respects) you could simply back off the crosslide until the leadscrew wound out of the nut, then remove the leadscrew with its handwheel, dial and bearing housing.

There should be a saddle locking screw with a little tommy bar, top left of the apron under the left side of the crosslide.

You might find you can't reach a gib adjustment that's consistent all the way across – most will have worn more in the range of movement where they've been most used. If so, accepting a bit of slop in the worn places is better than binding in the unworn.

[Charles Smitheman 1Participant @charlessmitheman1]

Gents,

Many thanks for the excellent replies, you are too kind.

So I shall take the slide off and clean it all up as per descriptions above.

I have been using ordinary SAE30 mower oil up to now, it seems as though this is adequate.

I probably have the gib screws too tight.

Also the handwheel shaft was bent by impact. (the end of the lead screw) I managed to straighten it a bit by hand, when it is out I will have another look at it.

I am enjoying it, it is so rewarding to make something that works.

I may yet look for a small lathe/ mill combo instead rather than spending much on my old safari veteran! Recommendations in this regard would be much appreciated. I am interested in making little bits mostly. Maybe a glow engine one day…

Regards,

Charles

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Charles Smitheman 1 on 21/02/2018 08:05:13:

… struggling to do anything accurate. What happens when turning the cross feed is it moves in jerks, it seems to be binding on the bed and jumping forward, so it is impossible to do anything accurate.

.

Charles

Upon reflection [having reviewed the responses by other members] …

Did I misinterpret your use of the word 'bed' ?

MichaelG.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 21/02/2018 13:44:03:

Posted by Charles Smitheman 1 on 21/02/2018 08:05:13:

… struggling to do anything accurate. What happens when turning the cross feed is it moves in jerks, it seems to be binding on the bed and jumping forward, so it is impossible to do anything accurate.

.

Charles

Upon reflection [having reviewed the responses by other members] …

Did I misinterpret your use of the word 'bed' ?

MichaelG.

I was thinking he meant the 'bed' of the crosslide, ie. the slideways on the saddle, at right angles to the spindle centreline. If not, the comments I posted are irrelevant.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Mick B1 on 21/02/2018 15:39:17:

I was thinking he meant the 'bed' of the crosslide, ie. the slideways on the saddle, at right angles to the spindle centreline. If not, the comments I posted are irrelevant.

.

You are probably correct, Mick

… That's why I thought it wise to ask my question.

MichaelG.

[Charles Smitheman 1Participant @charlessmitheman1]

Morning gents,

Sorry for my poor descriptions.

The cross feed/ slide is my problem. The one you use to change the diameter of the work.

The slide seems to bind up and then jump.

I shall have a go at the weekend, following the above guidelines.

Many thanks.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Thanks, Charles

I had made the the [obvious but erroneous] assumption that 'bed' meant 'lathe bed'.

… entirely my mistake.

MichaelG.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

One posibility not yet mentioned is that the lead screw itself might be able to move in and out a little, so need shimming, possibly with a thin washer, to avoid said movement.

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

The Lead screw on an ML10 is backlash controlled at the right hand end by the bracket and the handle and a lock nut ! If modified for a drum scale and a clutch release then the Lead screw is cut at the left end to allow disengagement! Very handy for screwcutting.. Agree that swarf and debri get into the body of the saddle and I am at the moment making a shroud to fit over the lead screw to prevent this, it will easily be dismounted. Mainly to stop swarf falling on the leadscrew and being carried back into the half thread nuts which are some sort of ally.

Clive

[RobinParticipant @robin]

Posted by Clive Hartland on 22/02/2018 09:12:55:

I am at the moment making a shroud to fit over the lead screw to prevent this, it will easily be dismounted.

I have one of them, made it in brass. I bought a pot of green Myford paint to make it look official. It gets bent occasionally because I made it before I fitted the leadscrew clutch.

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by Charles Smitheman 1 on 21/02/2018 12:47:12:

I may yet look for a small lathe/ mill combo instead rather than spending much on my old safari veteran! Recommendations in this regard would be much appreciated. I am interested in making little bits mostly. Maybe a glow engine one day…

Better to get the ML10 working properly and buy a small mill to go with it unless you have space constraints. The combined lathe/mills are rather limiting.

Russell

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

Posted by Charles Smitheman 1 on 21/02/2018 12:47:12:

Also the handwheel shaft was bent by impact. (the end of the lead screw) I managed to straighten it a bit by hand, when it is out I will have another look at it.

Charles,

I have a spare short ML10 cross-slide body and leadscrew, left over after changing to the longer cross-slide a few years ago. They are yours for the postage if you need them.

Jim.

[Charles Smitheman 1Participant @charlessmitheman1]

Hello Jim,

That is a very kind offer, thanks. Mine is metric, what is yours?

I bit the bullet last night and took it all to bits, and dismantled the whole carriage assembly.

Lots of cleaning was required, it was full of muck where I had not been before.

There are many faults on the machine, with parts broken worn or missing.

However I intend to persevere for a while, as I am learning through the excercise, which now is more "can I make this lathe work" rather than "can I make X on this lathe!"

Thus far I have refitted the main slide to the bed, and adjusted it with the feed screw removed. It does get very slightly tighter towards the ends of its travel, but it moves fairly freely by hand.

Close examination of the cross feed screw (terminology?) showed that it was running out of true. Gentle bending seems to have improved this, which may be the root of my problem.

Then I shall study the book and do some tool grinding. I have a collection of hand me downs to work with .

That's the weekend cut out then.

Charles

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Charles Smitheman 1 on 23/02/2018 07:47:43:

There are many faults on the machine, with parts broken worn or missing.

However I intend to persevere for a while, as I am learning through the excercise, which now is more "can I make this lathe work" rather than "can I make X on this lathe!"

LOL, hardly surprising on a machine of such vintage rescued from a yard in Dar Es Salaam.

Tis an interesting exercise though and very satisfying when you get it sorted and making "X" on it. Anyone can make a model engine/dividing head/Quorn TC etc on a new lathe and mill. Doing it on vintage machinery you've refurbished yourself is a hoot — if you are of a certain bloody minded perverse nature.

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

Posted by Charles Smitheman 1 on 23/02/2018 07:47:43:

That is a very kind offer, thanks. Mine is metric, what is yours?

Charles,

The leadscrew is Imperial – my ML10 is one of the early ones. But I think the main cross-slide body casting would be the same for metric or Imperial models.

 

Jim.

Edited By Jim Guthrie on 23/02/2018 08:36:23

[Charles Smitheman 1Participant @charlessmitheman1]

Thanks for the offer Jim, I will see how I get on first.

Charles

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