metric fine

[richard 2Participant @richard2]

Have recently started a new workshop and am undecided whether or not

to use metric fine or BA.Sonme advice please.

Am currently building the Potty horizontal engine.

I have a Myford S7B and am hoping for a Warco WSB16 shortly.

Just to let you know how stupid I can be I have just had delivered a Warco VMC turret mill only to find when installed and the delivery people gone that

I did not have enough height to get a drawbar in.

Have asked Warco to take it back and sell me the WSB16.

Now go and have a good laugh!!!

Richard 2.

[richard 2Participant @richard2]

Advice, please

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by richard 2 on 06/08/2017 15:30:15:

I did not have enough height to get a drawbar in.

Richard 2.

.

I would be cutting a hole in the shed / garage roof and putting a small box construction on top.

Nick

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Richard,

IIRC the Potty Mill Engine uses ordinary Metric Coarse threads. I have used metric threads on the engines I have made.

Thor

[John ReeseParticipant @johnreese12848]

I just looked a a picture of the Warco VMV. Could you tilt the head 90 deg., then insert the drawbar. I have two mills, a Bidgeport clone and a RF45. Once the drawbars were in place I have never had to remove them.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Yes, you can tilt the head on a VMC to get the draw bar in.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

For fixings it makes little difference if you go with BA or Metric coarse but do consider what happens when you need to thread the end of a rod. If you are using imperial materials then BA will be better suited as 5BA goes onto 1/8" and 2BA onto 3/16". If using metric rod then you can thread that straight away with a metric die but may have to turn it down for BA.

Where you need to think more about metric fine is when the drawings have ME threads on them for things like pipe fittings and fine adjustment, BA does not go large enough and metric coarse is not ideal so some metric fine will be needed if you want to stick with metric.

I'm going more towards metric with the engines that I design and if you look at the couple of builds that I have posted with the drawings they use metric coarse fasteners but metric fine for pipes, glands, etc.

Edited By JasonB on 06/08/2017 16:21:23

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

What about the guy who made up all his new kitchen units in his workshop and then found that his house door was too narrow to get them in .It really happened ! Worse,they were all glued together ! The air was sorta blue around there for quite a while .

Why not take it outside,fit the drawbar,then bring it back in again.

Remember These things happen,why I dont know,but they do. Look upon it as a learning experience.

[Tractor manParticipant @tractorman]

I have a shaftesbury jig borer and the 30 int tool holders have a mix of imperial and metric threads so I need to swap drawbars. I cut a hole in the workshop ceiling to facilitate the change over. I’d recommend trying to.find a solution rather that swapping the mill. There’s always a way.

[Mick HenshallParticipant @mickhenshall99321]

How about cutting the bar down short enough to pop in and put a hinged joint to fit the other half to, put the shortened length in, lift up the top half and in she goes. Just needs a tenon on one half and a slot on the other pinned to keep diameter the same throughout it's length

Mick

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

How about digging a hole to sit it in

N.

[JonParticipant @jon]

How much shorter does it need to go?

Spec says 1702mm high, 5.58 foot plus drawbar length.

Apart from putting a flap in roof, may have to do that with my next one ceilings 7ft 8", you could cut down or stand mill on another stand.
Drawbars a necessity to be able to remove.

[Author]

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