Material for new lathe spindle

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Previously mentioned in other threads Wizard lathe is still in a bit of a state. The spindle has worn down by 0.002" to 0.003" around the point where it runs in the casting with a noticeable ridge.

If I were to have the spindle replaced what would be the best material for the job? Currently runs in the cast iron headstock but I might one day bore out the headstock for some sort of bearing.

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Another option to restore the spindle is to have it electro plated to build it up, then have it ground back to size.

Paul.

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Metal spraying followed by grinding back to size is a much better bet than electroplating. Over the years I have had several shafts (not lathe mandrels) restored very satisfactorily by this method. I used companies in Northampton and another in Luton. Try a web search for your area.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

White metal bearings?

They can even be poured in situ, there was a ME article about it around the 1920s or 30s

They used white metal bearings in locomotives btw, it's a proven system

metalling

Edited By Ady1 on 17/08/2015 09:56:18

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Plating ???????????

Metal spraying ??????????????

Give over, it's a Wizard lathe that in it's heyday used a nine penny lump of mild steel for a spindle with the minimum of machining required on it to get it out the do0r to some unsuspecting punter, proud owner.

Any old bit of steel will do but if I was doing one I'd probably go a bit OTT because I can and make a decent job of the spindle then get it Tuftrided which will give it a hard case, only microns thick but has the advantage of being done at a low temp, about 450 degrees, for heat treat that it doesn't distort and require further grinding.

Whilst the previous suggestions are valid on equipment that deserves this a Wizard lathe isn't one of them.

It's a bit like doubling the value of a Skoda by filling the tank with petrol.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Don't know how I missed this before

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

wizard lathe

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

How much hard work do you realistically expect the lathe to do?

It's in the same bag as an adept so the headstock will be worn as well.

Use a decent steel but not one that will be hard to machine to a good finish and you can probably do as good a job as the original.

The original Adept spec was 'mild steel' (probably of good engineering quality ).

Bear in mind that if the steel is too tough, you will struggle to put a morse taper socket in it with a reamer.

If doing the adept spindle again I would turn it all in one go, starting with the nose, then boring the socket and finishing everything else with a running centre in the socket, but 101 ways to skin this cat.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 17/08/2015 10:20:25:

It's in the same bag as an adept so the headstock will be worn as well.

When I refurbished my Flexispeed I found that the mild steel spindle was well worn. However, I pushed a length of 1/2" silver steel through the bearings with a bit of blue and it appears that they are effectively unworn. So, I made a new spindle out of free cutting mild steel. The original Flexispeed instructions state that the speed should be kept down to less than 1000rpm. I think that one of the problems with this type of lathe is that inexperienced users tend to run them connected directly to the motor rather than through a countershaft that reduces the speed to a sensible level. Fortunately, the cast iron is considerably harder than the spindle – much easier to make a new spindle!

Rod

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

I mean of course in the fullness of time I shall have a through hardened superalloy spindle running in precision ground and pre tensioned double angular roller bearings lubricated with the finest tungsten disuphide grease.

Until then its a mild steel spindle with some oil cups from ArcEuro oil cups. Tuftriding is interesting but I'm not sure how many places would do such a small job (and I wonder what the minimum price would be).

Also the advantage of a replacement is I can get those new fangled M14x1 threads so I can buy chucks without doing a Jenkins conversion for every accesory I buy new.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by Rainbows on 17/08/2015 11:11:45:

Also the advantage of a replacement is I can get those new fangled M14x1 threads so I can buy chucks without doing a Jenkins conversion for every accesory I buy new.

Good plan

Rod

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 17/08/2015 10:48:35:

However, I pushed a length of 1/2" silver steel through the bearings with a bit of blue and it appears that they are effectively unworn.

Rod

Not sure how I managed to overlook your post but my Wizard is in the exact same position. Not a thou of wear on them and a nice finish.

I'm in reverse for the countershaft. Got a shaft with bearings, a 2.5" pulley and a 9" pulley on it but still trying to track down a motor that doesn't look like it was pulled out a lake. Can't blame people for it though, I could easily spend more money on pulleys than I did on this lathe (thank you scrapyard for having this countershaft for £5).

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Rainbows,

Sound as if John S is offering to make you a new spindle …..

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Is my inbox published to all the members or did I miss an obvious offer further up the thread?

Now I have to think of ways to repay a favour to someone who has more skill and more machinery than me.

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