Lathe Metal Turning Tools

[Malcolm FarrantParticipant @malcolmfarrant93389]

I have a number of Lathe Tools, but am not sure any are of "High Quality"

Anyone with suggestions as to where to go for REALLY good ones.

Any ideas MOST welcome

[Malcolm FarrantParticipant @malcolmfarrant93389]

[David Standing 1Participant @davidstanding1]

Exactly what sort of 'lathe tools' are you looking for?

What's your budget?

[Niels AbildgaardParticipant @nielsabildgaard33719]

Make a tangential Yourself.

I have made some ultra rigids for my Boxford and lack of competition makes me believe they are worlds best Boxford tools.

A picture of Your lathe will further Your case.

**LINK**

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Niels

The tangential tool you sent me (a long time ago now) is certainly the best tool I have on the Boxford.

Hope the left-handed caliper is still working.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

+1 for a Tangential tool.

The expensive way is to buy. The cheaper way is to make your own. Also you can choose the size of toolbit, and make the holder to suit your particular machine. I am not a precision engineer, but my home made ones work well.

All that you then need is a simple jig to hold the toolbit for grinding.

If you have not seen a drawing, it is just a rectangular piece of metal with the under side machined at 20 to 30 degrees. Imagine a wide wedge.(Opinions vary as to the optimum angle, but over this range the tool is effective) The upper side has a vee groove in it, at right angles to the long edge of the angled side. On this upper surface drill and tap two holes for clamping setscrews. The upper part of the clamp is merely another rectangular bit of metal, thick enough not to bend when clamped, with two clearance holes on the same centres as the tappings in the base.

To sharpen the toolbit, place one corner in the Vee groove and clamp it using the two setscrews. The toolbit is now held at the correct angle, and can be ground by rubbing gently along the side of the grinding wheel.

The cutting edge will be diamond shaped.

Once sharpened, set the cutting edge to the centre height of the lathe. (if you have not made one already; make a gauge to set tools to centre height. It will save a lot of time over the coming years). With the holder square on to the lathe axis, you have a tool which will face or turn without any change, and produce a surprising good finish, whilst being able to take very fine cuts.

I have used mine for cut depths ranging from 0.0005" to 0.050". For fine cuts it is advisable to resharpen the toolbit and reset it to centre height.

Howard

[Niels AbildgaardParticipant @nielsabildgaard33719]

Posted by Robbo on 09/07/2017 19:00:43:

Niels

The tangential tool you sent me (a long time ago now) is certainly the best tool I have on the Boxford.

Hope the left-handed caliper is still working.

Hello Robbo and thank You again for the reverse left hand caliper.It is used often due to my space limitated Boxford.

What kind of toolbit is on Your TanTool?

Asking because I have two surplus suitable for Boxfords with 2mm square carbide and they are miles better than HSS or Stellite.

You can have one as gift if You:

Have either a Diamond or Carborundum(Siliziumcarbide) grinding wheel

Promise to test it and post a few pictures and words of oppinion here.

 

Kind regards

Niels

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 09/07/2017 19:49:25

[Tim StevensParticipant @timstevens64731]

Be aware that the term 'quality' means quite distinct things to different sorts of engineer. To a quality engineer, the term means 'does it comply exactly with the requirements of the drawing/specification?' To others it might mean 'it lasts a long time between grinds' or 'it produces an excellent finish', or 'I know I am overloading this tool but it does not even bend', or 'I sell a lot of these and I have had no complaints'..

So, in order to deal fairly with your question, what exactly do you mean by 'high quality' or even 'really good' ?

Sorry

Tim

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Are you seeking High Speed Steel tool bits, or carbide?

For HSS, the simplest way is to pay the extra money for good quality name brand blanks from any of the reputable suppliers and learn the very simple task of sharpening them yourself. LH Sparey's book "The Amateur's Lathe" has the best rundown on lathe tool grinding that I have seen.

For carbide inserts, the go seems to be to buy medium quality holders such as Soba and buy top quality inserts such as Summitomo, Mitsubishi, Kenametal, Sandvik etc. It seems the ground-finish inserts sold for machining aluminium work well on smaller lathes, even for turning steel. These are identified by a G in the coding, eg CCGT instead of CCMT.

[Malcolm FarrantParticipant @malcolmfarrant93389]

Many many thanks for all your replies.
My lathe is a Warco 250V, which seems to suit my abilities very well.

I used to do a lot of very complicated Segmented wood turning, but the dust from toxic wood ruined my (now 80) old lungs !!.

As a youth I did quite a lot of metal work on a Drummond lathe. I am now endeavouring to make a Stuart Model Stationary steam engine.

I am using bits with inserts, which do work fine.

The only tool I do not seem to be able to find is a really good parting Tool. I do not want one with inserts. Is it better to have a High Speed Steel one or is a Carbide one better.

Again in anticipation to everyone ….THANK YOU

I do like to try and finish all my work to a high standard

[Author]

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