The last lot of junior blades I purchased from B&Q have not lasted very long, they cut well at first but sooner went dull. I was thinking of getting some Eclipes but before doing so I thought I'd asking what the forum members are using ?
Eclipse, I'm still working through my father's 1970s stock I have bought some Groz blades to try, but it is too early to say how they compare (although they are much better than the blades that come with cheap junior hacksaws).
I am using up old stock of eclipse that I found whilst clearing up my old toolbox, have used blades from B & Q… rubbish. you can generally tell a good blade… eclipse blades have a spring feel to them when you bend them ,& snap cleanly & crisply whereas other cheapo diy blades will easily bend & break without a clean snap, you can actually feel the diy blade failing ( crackling sound / sensation ), so when ever I find eclipse blades I buy half a dozen or so to keep stocks up.
Eclipse make good hacksaw & jnr hacksaw blades which I use but I don't rate their piercing saw blades though,much prefer vallorbe swiss blades [more pricey !!] but much more accurate & easier to use.
The beauty of an old/well lived workshop is- you tidy up behind a bench or cupboard and find new unused but old in years, meaning sharp and good ,hack saw blades other similar goodies and lots of swarf that's out to get you!
Ah, but which direction do the above users fit the blade, cut on the push stroke or cut on the pull stroke.
I find that blades last much longer cutting on the pull stroke, at least they do in the pupils hands at work.
Standard procedure in some European countries. I always wondered why the Swiss and Italian guys I worked with did that. All they could tell me was "because it is the correct way". Maybe you have discovered the secret. Makes sense when you think about it.
I wonder if our practice comes originally from woodwork, a coping saw is (edit: usually) pushed so that any splinters are on the back of the work, and a fretsaw is pulled so that any splinters are underneath. Similarly we push a junior hacksaw and pull a piercing saw.
I thought I was buying Eclipse but as the tooth profile was 'rounded' and they could be tied in a knot I doubt they were the genuine article. Beware.
Luckily a neighbour is issued blades at work and he gave me a box full.
No name but excellent blades.
I use Eclipse blades, my regular frame is one of the screw tensioned type and I push on that, I have a deep frame spring one, and pull on that(its about Xs 3 the depth of a standard frame. Once when exploring one of the hard ware retailers in Christchurch I'm sure I spotted Bi-metal junior blades (15/20 yrs ago). Then there is this.
Ah, but which direction do the above users fit the blade, cut on the push stroke or cut on the pull stroke.
I find that blades last much longer cutting on the pull stroke, at least they do in the pupils hands at work.
Standard procedure in some European countries. I always wondered why the Swiss and Italian guys I worked with did that. All they could tell me was "because it is the correct way". Maybe you have discovered the secret. Makes sense when you think about it.
In the case of jewellers' saws there's a very straightforward utilitarian reason why the blades are orientated with the teeth pointing towards the handle: the default position for the saw in use is vertical, with the handle at the bottom. Among other things, this allows gravity to assist the cut. The workpiece is usually held flat on the wooden benchpeg and shifted about as cutting proceeds.
I always used Eclipse blades because of their superiority but found that my supplier had sold out and could only offer me another make…..Bahco, made in Germany. It is sad to say and with great regret that I have to admit that the Bahco blades are imho better than the Eclipse by a good margin.