Insert facemilsl, correct use on hardened Steel.

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Insert facemilsl, correct use on hardened Steel.

Home Forums Manual machine tools Insert facemilsl, correct use on hardened Steel.

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  • #472577
    Steviegtr
    Participant
      @steviegtr

      I have done quite a bit more milling with the facecutter. I have tried 4 different types as you can see in the video I have posted. Spent half the night uploading it. It may be a little long for some of you.

      But if you have the patience it is quite informative. Probably not for the pro members but definitely for any amateurs, like myself.

      Using the Chinese cutter was not a comparison but purely just to try it out. The price of the inserts alone in the best cutter were far more than the whole tool on the Chinese version.

      Cutting hard steel with a facemill.

      Steve.

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      #472600
      JasonB
      Moderator
        @jasonb

        Think I said when you first got them that with the right inserts and a moderate depth of cut they would work and the round insert one would not be that good.

        The 63mm is cutting well, the slight mark you were getting when taking those additional cuts off to get down to the line may have been as the work was higher in the vice, would be better as low as you can get it.

        Like me you found the very cheap one was quite poor, if you have the time it would be interesting to set it a few mm below the top of a block and do the feeler gauge test against the side of the inserts, as the tool is moving sideways that is where the chip load will alter if the inserts are out, You could also put a DTI on the holder as I found mine was a loose fit on the cheap arbor that resulted in it being eccentric, tapping it true may help get a better cut. However the real difference will be seen if you swap out the supplied cheap inserts with the ones you were using in the 63mm cutter. You should be able to see the difference even on mild steel as you can't have many hard holders left!

        #472692
        Steviegtr
        Participant
          @steviegtr
          Posted by JasonB on 18/05/2020 08:37:37:

          Think I said when you first got them that with the right inserts and a moderate depth of cut they would work and the round insert one would not be that good.

          The 63mm is cutting well, the slight mark you were getting when taking those additional cuts off to get down to the line may have been as the work was higher in the vice, would be better as low as you can get it.

          Like me you found the very cheap one was quite poor, if you have the time it would be interesting to set it a few mm below the top of a block and do the feeler gauge test against the side of the inserts, as the tool is moving sideways that is where the chip load will alter if the inserts are out, You could also put a DTI on the holder as I found mine was a loose fit on the cheap arbor that resulted in it being eccentric, tapping it true may help get a better cut. However the real difference will be seen if you swap out the supplied cheap inserts with the ones you were using in the 63mm cutter. You should be able to see the difference even on mild steel as you can't have many hard holders left!

          I will try that Jason. Never thought of checking the side. Also correct I have finished the tool holders now. So I will have a go with some En1A. I also do have some ISCAR inserts that will fit & I am sure the results will be different. Regards.

          Steve.

          #473253
          Paul Fallert
          Participant
            @paulfallert28101

            Steviegtr,

            Have you tried removing the insert that is not in line and trying other inserts from your stock? Is it the insert or the pocket?

            A brass or steel shim can be stoned down to whatever works. Alt, the pocket might need an irreversible stoning. Note: DaveM of YouTub MiniMachineShop.com had success with a shim, but he is willing to pursue any problem to a resolution, no matter time invested, patience required or difficulty.

            Even name-brand inserts have been known to have "slumped/shifted" after baking!

            Paul

            #473351
            Steviegtr
            Participant
              @steviegtr
              Posted by Paul Fallert on 20/05/2020 14:31:17:

              Steviegtr,

              Have you tried removing the insert that is not in line and trying other inserts from your stock? Is it the insert or the pocket?

              A brass or steel shim can be stoned down to whatever works. Alt, the pocket might need an irreversible stoning. Note: DaveM of YouTub MiniMachineShop.com had success with a shim, but he is willing to pursue any problem to a resolution, no matter time invested, patience required or difficulty.

              Even name-brand inserts have been known to have "slumped/shifted" after baking!

              Paul

              That is a good point. I was pondering that the other night. Holder or just a bad insert. As Jason pointed out I think the best way is change the inserts for some known good ones. Remount & do some measurements taken from the underside as done before, plus on the side edge.

              Steve.

              #473419
              John Reese
              Participant
                @johnreese12848

                It may not be the pocket that is bad. M tolerance inserts have a .002 to .005 inch variation. Check the inserts as well as the pocket.

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