How to machine a back plate on a WM 250 lathe

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

Hello All

As soon as they are in stock, I’ll be buying a back plate for my new WM250 lathe so that I can attach my collet chuck.

According to the Warco web site, I’ll need to machine the back plate to fit the recess on the collet chuck but I’m stuck on how to do this.

In the photo I have the tool post as far over to the left as it will go, but as you can see there is no chance that the tool will be able to reach the back plate.

Although not shown I’m imaging the back plate will only be abput 15 mm deep. This seems out of reach of any cutting tool?

What’s the obvious thing I’m missing ?

Thanks

David

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

How to machine a back plate on a WM 250 lathe

[egaParticipant @ega]

Won't a boring tool reach the backplate?

[egaParticipant @ega]

PS:

I know nothing about this lathe but just wonder whether temporarily removing the LH leadscrew cover might allow the saddle to move further towards the headstock (this might involve running the saddle out of engagement with the rack, of course).

[mahgniaParticipant @mahgnia]

David,

Use the topslide?

How much travel do you have on the topslide?

Otherwise EGA's suggestion using a large diameter boring tool should work.

Andrew

Edited By mahgnia on 19/10/2015 04:39:30

Edited By mahgnia on 19/10/2015 04:42:16

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi David,

The suggested solutions should probably work, on my slightly larger 290 lathe the rear splash guard prevents the carriage from reaching the headstock so removing the leadscrew cover was not an option for me (to remove the guard I would have had to move the lathe).
So I used a big boring bar (as ega suggests) when turning my backplates, that worked well.

Thor

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Take the lead screw cover off and you may also need to remove the chuck gaurd, the spindle it mounts to can still be turned to activate the safety switch. Mine was an early 280 that did not have the leadscrew cover and my carrage will butt up against the headstock.

Whether you put it back on is upto you but they will also need removing for any faceplate work.

The topslide if as far left as it will go in the photo.

 

j

Edited By JasonB on 19/10/2015 10:22:14

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

In the photo, the topslide is as far left as it will go and at the end of its travel.

It’s not obvious to me on how to remove the lead screw cover without a major disassembly (???), but even if I get past that hurdle the rear splash guard will get in the way and so only get me about a cm closer than shown in the photo (Without the rear splash guard swarf will get into the motor). I’m also puzzled on how to use the faceplate for the same reason?

I’m not following the boring bar idea so I think there must be something I don’t understand. My boring bar is right handed for the inside of a bore so I can't see how to use it to machine a spigot for the chuck.

Sorry if I'm missing the obvious!

David

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Hi David, I've got the same machine and have removed the leadscrew cover. You will need to remove the leadscrew by driving out the taper pin at the left end and removing the right hand support bracket, the leadscrew can then be withdrawn, take off the brackets that support the cover as well as these also impede the movement of the carriage. Where in the country are you?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You can either mount the boring bar upside down to use at the front of the lathe and run the spindle backwards. Or slide the topslide right to the back of the cross slide, mount the bar as usual but again run the spindle in reverse.

Like this

[egaParticipant @ega]

A further thought: one of the new versions of the Eccentric tangential toolholder might help.

http://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/images/stories/Facing%20Layout.jpg

Boring tools can be made as well as bought!

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Before messing around removing things make sure that the rack is long enough for the saddle to move further along. It might not be.

Did you try extending the compound slide as far as it will go and angling the tool post with a V shaped tool in it? Looks like that wont reach either. If not the boring bar is the best option or grind some HSS to suite.

Moan.The wonderful Wabeco 4000 could do it apart from the fact that the saddle hits the motor cover. However it will probably reach with the compound slide fully out and the tool post angled.

John

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