How do I remove this lever held by a pin?

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

I have not been able to remove this lever, on the cam shaft (alters belt tension) on my ML7.

Tried knocking it with a hammer and brass drift from both sides to no avail. As photo shows, the pin is flared both ends. It is possible in home workshop, as I have seen a disassembled ML7 online.

Any help gratefully received.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 22/09/2017 23:38:11

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 22/09/2017 23:38:42

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

[AJWParticipant @ajw]

I am sure this will be a tapered pin so one end will be a bit smaller, that’s the end to attack!
If it already had a bit of bashing it might not be that obvious as it is a small taper anyway.

Alan

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Have you looked at the exploded parts list diagram? I'm sure that would be helpful rather than guessing. There are many owners here who will know the answer.

From where I'm standing, the narrow end is at the bottom, so welting it "upwards" would do the trick. But can't you dismantle it a bit first so you can support it properly in a vise or against a solid base?

Murray

Edited By Muzzer on 23/09/2017 00:20:13

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

+1 on Muzzer's suggestion to dismantle the swinging frame from the main frame and place the handle on a solid vice etc then try knocking that tapered pin out. One good sharp shock should knock it loose, but you will struggle to get that sort of sharp impact while the frame is able to flex around in its native environment. They are a pretty flimsy little unit.

If for some reason you can't or don't want to remove the swinging frame, try holding a large hammer (eg 4lbs or so) behind the handle to hold it firm while tapping the pin out with hammer and drift from the other side.

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by choochoo_baloo on 22/09/2017 23:37:12:

Tried knocking it with a hammer and brass drift from both sides to no avail.

I would use a steel pin punch/drift, the brass will increase the effort needed required to knock it out, you'll just be deforming the end.

Michael W

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

A steel drift risks mushrooming the small end of the pin which then won't fit through the hole, better to use a softer drift so that deforms and not the pin.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

If the small end mushrooms you could grind it flush with the mating part, then use a pin punch slightly smaller than the taper pin to drive it out. As stated previously, use something heavy on the opposite side to stop any movement. A good sparp whack should remove it. If not you may have to drill it out using a drill smaller than the pin.

Paul

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

If the pin has been spread by previous efforts then it may be worth fileing it flush and then punching it out, as previously advised solid support makes it much easier and less likely to damage anything else.

Mike

I see Paul has said the same thing while I was having breakfast!

Edited By Mike Poole on 23/09/2017 09:51:37

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Is the disassembly really necessary?

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

It looks like the top of that pin has been pounded on pretty hard as it has mushroomed so it is jammed in tight .

If you can get the assembly off the machine then set it up on a vice so the jaws support the lever housing either side of the mushroomed end of the pin and give the pin a good thump on the other end with a lead or copper hammer to loosen it then drive it out with a pin punch .

If all else fails you may have to drill it out .

[Richard S2Participant @richards2]

Not sure why you need to remove and separate the Handle Boss from the Eccentric Shaft ?.

When I refurbished my Counter Shaft/Drive Ass'y, I removed the whole piece (part nbr 75/1613/1).

It is listed in Myfords Manual as an Assembly (1 piece unit). Only the Ball Handle unscrews.

Only requires the removal of the Shaft Collar/ Stop Peg at the opposite end of the shaft. Carefully filing any Burrs from the Eccentric recess edges and withdrawing, while supporting the Counter Shaft.

It can then be worked on without subjecting the Frame Ass'y to unnecessary forces and possible damage (Aluminium casting).

[Author]

Posts