Fenner Powertwist v belts

[Simon CollierParticipant @simoncollier74340]

Pushing the rear cone in. this spacer was turned to size to the job.

[Simon CollierParticipant @simoncollier74340]

Pushing the bull wheel on its key and interference up to the stop. Note new belt is on.

[Simon CollierParticipant @simoncollier74340]

Similar operations were used to get the rear cone, rear keyed spacer and rear bearing pushed into place. Bearing preload was a guess, but I had originally measured the space between the adjuster nut and the bearing cover before disassembly, using drill shanks (2.1 mm fitted best), so I used this gap when tightening.

This was all a tremendous, stressful, expensive ($250), distracting PITA. Yes, I now know a lot more about my lathe's headstock assembly, and of course, it was a satisfying achievement finally to succeed. But I wish to God that I had bought the Fenner link belt, which I could have got for about $160 for twice the length I needed.

[Phillip HancockParticipant @philliphancock13014]

A trick for getting an outer bearing race out is to lay a run of weld around the inside with the mig welder and the weld bead will loosen the bearing race.

[Simon CollierParticipant @simoncollier74340]

Yes, I read about that or perhaps it was on YouTube. Hair raising stuff and I am not a welder anyway. The races must be quality steel as, despite all the violence, the old ones look perfect with not a mark on them. Infuriatingly, the book says, " tap them out……"

[Author]

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