Boxford CUD electrics

[lucerneParticipant @lucerne]

I’ve just acquired a Boxford CUD which appears in decent physical condition but it comes with an electrical issue.

Opening up the switch box reveals 2 red wires to the right of the connector box are detached:

 

Any advice as to where should these be reconnected?

There are also a series of door sensors which I assume are there for safety purposes? At least one of these has the wires detached.

These appear to be add ons, for school use possibly?

Any advice gratefully received and I’d be happy to employ a local specialist to come and sort it out if anyone has a recommendation for someone that operates in the SW / south Devon UK

 

 

 

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

Does the lathe run?

The orange and yellow wires on my Boxford are for the safety interlocks or micro switches. They may have been disconnected to allow the lathe to run with the cabinet door open.

[lucerneParticipant @lucerne]

No, not presently, the indicator lights up and I’ve now connected the 2 wires ot the start switch, powered it up, made a little noise but nothing else. I think I’m going to try a direct connection to the motor, to check thats operative at least.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

A little noise likely means no start capacitor/winding operational.

 

[Martin CargillParticipant @martincargill50290]

I was just going to say that the wires should be connected to the start button. to test the motor all you have to do is put the power on and, with an insulated screwdriver, push the middle of the contactor in. The motor should start. Doing this bypasses all of the control wiring (door switches etc) It may latch on so be ready to cut the power should you need to.

 

Martin

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, do you know if it has a three phase or a single phase motor, if it’s a three phase motor, it won’t run on a single phase supply without an inverter of some sort.

Regards Nick.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

I think you need to re-wire the lathe from scratch. You seem to be missing a switch or two for a start.
As Nick says some information on the motor would be a good staring point..
On the door sensors, only one of these has wires the other is just a magnet. The housings are indentical. The wired one has a reed switch which closes when next to the magnet.

Robert.

[lucerneParticipant @lucerne]

Thanks all, I’m getting there. Taking Martins advice I’ve started it up by pushing the contactor in and it works fine both in forward and reverse, (240v single phase motor BTW).

So I suppose I’ll now need to check the reed switches in turn to see if any faults.

Are these safety switches needed for domestic use? If they are how many should there be? Presently on motor cabinet door, and gear cover, and the back gear lever.

A thing I’ve noted as missing is the spindle lock button. Is this essential? The surround is in place and it looks as if there’s a bar of correct diameter to push in and engage the spindle.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi lucerne, you should have at least three, one on the range selector on the top, one on the change wheel cover, and one on the motor/belt cabinet door. I would urge that you do have them working for your own safety, as this is a fairly powerful machine, and you will get hurt if you get tangled up with it inadvertently, if you forget to stop it before opening any covers while it’s running.

Do you know the power output of your motor, as it really needs to be at least 1hp, but even with a 1hp motor, you won’t get the top speed, and probably not the next one down either. Not sure how the spindle lock button is fixed to the locking pin, so you may have to make one.

Regards Nick.

[lucerne]

On lucerne

……

Are these safety switches needed for domestic use? …….

 

You’re just as likely to get mixed up with electricity or rotating machinery at home as in an industrial environment. At least at work there is usually someone to hit the estop and call the ambulance

 

[lucerneParticipant @lucerne]

Yes, I agree and will make sure they’re working or replaced. They don’t appear to be expensive items. I know of at least 2 knife makers that have either died or been seriously injured by belt grinders.

The motor appears reasonably hefty:

 

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Spindle lock button – essential for removing chucks, backplates etc.  Please don’t use “Engage backgear and use big hammer on chuck to remove !!!

Bob

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

I’ll second Bobs comment ! The spindle lock is vital. Cap on the motor = single phase. What do you know about electrics and do you have a wiring diagram ?  Good luck. Noel.

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

The Boxford was NOT designed to run in reverse.  This is because the chuck can wind off and do serious damage to anything in its path.   I modified my back plates so they were locked onto the threaded nose spindle but was still very cautious about running in reverse.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Owned and run Southbend and Boxford for 60 odd years – chuck never wound off in reverse YET !  Just need to be aware of this when using reverse. It was obviously intended to run in reverse Eg screw threading when you cut metric on an imperial leadscrew and can’t disengage half nuts – that’s why there is a fwd/rev switch ??

Bob

[noel shelley]

On noel shelley Said:

I’ll second Bobs comment ! The spindle lock is vital. Cap on the motor = single phase. What do you know about electrics and do you have a wiring diagram ?  Good luck. Noel.

Noted, thanks both. I do have the wiring diagrams and will seek professional advice to undertake any rewiring. In the meantime, and now I know most of it is operative I’ll try and trace the switch fault with a multi-meter.

Re the spindle lock, I assume thats a sprung loaded pin of some form that engages with the spindle hole when the oil port is visible? I’m trying to source one now. Does anyone know of a supplier that might have one?

[Clive Brown 1Participant @clivebrown1]

A member of the Facebook Boxford group stocks and sells many Boxford components. You seem to be a member already, so you could try there.

Otherwise, could you make one? I’m not au fait with the design as my benchtop ME10 isn’t fitted with one.

[lucerneParticipant @lucerne]

Thanks Clive, yes, I’ve joined the groups on FB and will also ask there.

Making one is a possibility but I’d need to have one to measure off.

[Speedy Builder5]

On Speedy Builder5 Said:

Owned and run Southbend and Boxford for 60 odd years – chuck never wound off in reverse YET !  Just need to be aware of this when using reverse. It was obviously intended to run in reverse Eg screw threading when you cut metric on an imperial leadscrew and can’t disengage half nuts – that’s why there is a fwd/rev switch ??

Bob

Yes I agree Bob. Just a cautionary warning to the OP as he may not be aware of this.  I have had Boxfords for about the same time.  I have never had a chuck come off but I know someone that did. ATB

[lucerneParticipant @lucerne]

Thanks for the warning, duly noted. I have my friendly electrician coming around to take a look so will report back on outcome.

In the meanwhile, does anyone recognise these parts which came with it, along with a good deal of tooling, vertical milling attachment, and a fixed steady.

[Clive Brown 1Participant @clivebrown1]

The item bottom right is an adjustable stop for the cross-slide. Useful for, eg, screw-cutting when retracting the tool on return pass. Others; dunno!

[Clive Brown 1Participant @clivebrown1]

Just realised, the rectangular item looks like the bottom half of a tailstock assembly.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

An ex chairman at our club put a chuck which was far too big on a myford, then proceeded to use it like a production lathe. It seized and the chuck kept going, finished up bouncing round his workshop

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

The round object with two slots is / was the screw cutting half nut engagement lever unit that fits to the front of the apron but seems to have lost the lever. If the lathe has a replacement fitted then this becomes a useful piece of cast iron that should be kept with the lathe for the next six owners to ponder over.

[Clive Brown 1]

On Clive Brown 1 Said:

Just realised, the rectangular item looks like the bottom half of a tailstock assembly.

Thank you, google confirms but it must be for another much larger machine.

On duncan webster 1 Said:

An ex chairman at our club put a chuck which was far too big on a myford, then proceeded to use it like a production lathe. It seized and the chuck kept going, finished up bouncing round his workshop

I’m very wary about this machine as its obvioulsy far more powerful than my little Zyto.

On duncan webster 1 Said:

An ex chairman at our club put a chuck which was far too big on a myford, then proceeded to use it like a production lathe. It seized and the chuck kept going, finished up bouncing round his workshop

Yes! I was looking at in in plain sight when I took this pic but didn’t twig:

 

On Bazyle Said:

The round object with two slots is / was the screw cutting half nut engagement lever unit that fits to the front of the apron but seems to have lost the lever. If the lathe has a replacement fitted then this becomes a useful piece of cast iron that should be kept with the lathe for the next six owners to ponder over.

Ah, it must be a spare then as there’s one in place, and 😊

 

[Author]

Posts