.

I would be cutting a hole in the shed / garage roof and putting a small box construction on top.

Nick

I just looked a a picture of the Warco VMV. Could you tilt the head 90 deg., then insert the drawbar. I have two mills, a Bidgeport clone and a RF45. Once the drawbars were in place I have never had to remove them.

For fixings it makes little difference if you go with BA or Metric coarse but do consider what happens when you need to thread the end of a rod. If you are using imperial materials then BA will be better suited as 5BA goes onto 1/8" and 2BA onto 3/16". If using metric rod then you can thread that straight away with a metric die but may have to turn it down for BA.

Where you need to think more about metric fine is when the drawings have ME threads on them for things like pipe fittings and fine adjustment, BA does not go large enough and metric coarse is not ideal so some metric fine will be needed if you want to stick with metric.

I'm going more towards metric with the engines that I design and if you look at the couple of builds that I have posted with the drawings they use metric coarse fasteners but metric fine for pipes, glands, etc.

Edited By JasonB on 06/08/2017 16:21:23

I have a shaftesbury jig borer and the 30 int tool holders have a mix of imperial and metric threads so I need to swap drawbars. I cut a hole in the workshop ceiling to facilitate the change over. I’d recommend trying to.find a solution rather that swapping the mill. There’s always a way.

How about digging a hole to sit it in

N.