Bob,

If the printer to which you refer is the A1 version with no enclosure, then you’re pretty much stuck with the filaments recommended, of which I think PETG is probably the “strongest” your printer can manage.  Anything with carbon or glass fibre reinforcement are not recommended for the A1.  The PEI textured bed plate may be available for the A1 – I haven’t checked, but for my X1C it’s been a game changer for bed adhesion and easy release of the finished prints.

Perhaps you should investigate altering some of the printing parameters in Bambu Studio (or whatever slicer you use) to increase the strength of your prints.  I am not qualified to give directions on that score.  I can only say that a bit of fiddling with wall loops, wall thickness, sparse infill percentages etc, have all seemed to contribute to solid constructions which I have used in, for example, mounting the motors and encoder for my lathe ELS installation,, amongst other applications.

In my opinion, the BambuLab printer is a reasonably priced and very capable bit of kit.  You just have to get used to it and its little foibles,just like any other machine.

John

Also let the build plate cool b4 trying to remove the print.

I rarely have problems getting prints off the build plate on my A1. Letting it cool completely, then flexing the build plate should be enough. Don’t start messing with Z settings or base layers when starting out, the defaults work very well indeed.

Using different print profiles (standard or strength) may help increase part strength, as might increasing the number of walls and possibly increasing the fill strength. Also print orientation can effect part strength, there’s lots of videos on You Tube about these issues and how to get the best from the printer.
Other filament types have improved strength too. Sunlu PLA2+ is significantly stronger than basic pla, is cheap and is a supported filament on the A1.

Moving to PETG may have advantages, but will need drying before use.