100mm 4 jaw chuck servicing

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100mm 4 jaw chuck servicing

Home Forums Workshop Tools and Tooling 100mm 4 jaw chuck servicing

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  • #810295
    John Millis
    Participant
      @johnmillis57685

      I have a 4 jaw independent chuck where one jaw keeps jamming when trying to hold work in it. I need to remove the screw as it looks like a piece of metal is loose behind the screw. My question is how to remove the screw I assume there is a forked pin behind the 4 discs on the back of the chuck but how do you remove it. Do you drill it out but how do you remove the fork ??

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      #810311
      JasonB
      Moderator
        @jasonb

        If you look at the back of the chuck (remove any backplate) you should see 4 large circular discs, these are infact the end of the “bearings” which look like this. They may be tapped for a puller. Once remmoced there is nothing to retain the screws

        Bit of 4-jaw servicing going on here which shows them being removed

        #810313
        Diogenes
        Participant
          @diogenes

          Jason types faster –

          The ‘discs’ are often be the base of the forked pin, usually a slip fit and retained by the backplate – tho’ what constitutes a slip fit can be variable, some can be pushed out with the fingers, others might require (careful) driving with a brass drift.

          If it’s not obvious that this is the case, a photo of yours would be helpful..

          #810315
          Durhambuilder
          Participant
            @durhambuilder

            Remove the jaws and gently tap the end of the fork from the front face with something like a thin screwdriver or anything that will fit between the screw and the chuck body. Generally they are a light press fit. In use tightening the chuck jaw screws keeps them firmly in place. Some but not all chucks have small cheese head screws half in the body half in the fork, these would obviously need to be removed first.

            #810317
            John Millis
            Participant
              @johnmillis57685

              Many thanks for your replies I now know what I will be doing tomorrow

              I had seen the video but discarded it due to the size of the chuck assuming the fitting would be different

              many thanks

              #810362
              old mart
              Participant
                @oldmart

                I bought a NOS 6″ four jaw independent Toolmex made in Poland which had an integral Myford thread and wanted to convert it to front mount on a backplate for the Smart & Brown model A which is 1 3/4″X 8W thread. I decided to remove all of the screws and started by numbering the plugs and rear of the body as they had little screws in the joints. I had to make a special punch tool to push the plugs out, maybe more than one, I can’t remember. On assembly it was tricky to get the plugs exactly aligned so the locking screws could still be fitted. Chucks do not always have the screws, Pratts do not but both versions are very tight in the body.

                Are you sure you cannot fix the tightness without taking the thing to bits? You might get away with slightly moving the plug and be able to remove whetever is stuck in the works.

                #810371
                John Millis
                Participant
                  @johnmillis57685

                  Once again many thanks for all your replies. I couldn’t wait until tomorrow just spent 20 mins in the workshop and it punched out easily I now need to make a new fork pin as the retaining lugs have broken off. I now have a choice mill the existing deeper and set it in slightly deeper into the chuck body or make a completely new one possibly out of a bit of scrap brass that is about the correct size

                  I forgot to mention that the chuck is 100mm mini lathe unit

                  #810496
                  old mart
                  Participant
                    @oldmart

                    Those forked retainers are usually heat treated steel as the forces on the fork are quite high. Silver steel would be a suitable material and after finishing the shape you could heat it red hot and quench it for glass hardness. Then clean up the fork so that the silver of the metal is showing and heat slowly until the fork goes from light straw to dark straw and then starts going blue. Then quench and it should be strong enough. If my heat treatment advice is faulty, there wil be more informed replies.

                    By all means try to reclaim the old one if there is enough material in it but you will probably need solid carbide endmills for the job.

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