Twin Engineering’s heavy mill/drill quill removal

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Twin Engineering’s heavy mill/drill quill removal

This topic has 4 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 18 June 2025 at 12:50 by Martin of Wick.

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15 June 2025 at 15:06 #803003
Martin of Wick
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@martinofwick
Is there anyone on the forum with lived experience of Twin Engineering’s Twin Mill (mill/drill) ‘heavy’?

Having just acquired one, running the spindle for more than a few minutes at 1000 rpm causes the spindle nose and bottom of the quill to overheat significantly within 4 to 5 minute (as in ‘Ow xxxx that’s xxxxxxx hot!’).

I was wondering if anyone with that type mill could advise whether it is possible to detach the quick action drill assembly and drop the quill/spindle assembly out from the head, or is it likely to need the complete head removed?

I’m hoping the bearings just need the old grease removing, cleaning and re-lubricating. Replacement only if evident signs of wear. Either way, the only way to get to the bearings for inspection is by taking the quill out somehow.

ps. lathes.co does not have much useful info on this mill.
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15 June 2025 at 16:22 #803011
Peter Cook 6
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@petercook6
No experience but there are a series of You Tube video’s by someone called Guernsey Submarine which purport to show head removal and bearing change on one.
16 June 2025 at 14:31 #803135
old mart
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@oldmart
Having had a look at what there is in lathes UK, I would raise the quill to max height and look to see if there is anything like a nut or circlip at the top of the spindle. If there is nothing to stop the spindle passing through the pulley set, then things should be simple. Take out the drawbar.

Remove the rear quill locking bolt both sides first and then unscrew the hex bolt/bearing from the lever which moves the quill. Have a block of wood ready under the end of the spindle to stop it dropping onto the bed. All that should be holding the quill should be the depth stop adjusters which need to be unscrewed upwards bit by bit until they are removed.

Hopefully the quill should come out. You might have to drop the knee for enough clearance. Also, you might have to tilt the whole head if the quill proves too long to remove vertically.

Keep us informed of your progress and see if others agree with my proceedure. Good luck.
16 June 2025 at 15:51 #803146
bernard towers
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@bernardtowers37738
I would generally suspect that hot means tight
18 June 2025 at 12:50 #803372
Martin of Wick
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@martinofwick
Thanks for the replies. Apologies for slight pause while I moved house. It was both painful and terrifying to watch a bunch of general movers shift the mill. I have no idea what it weighs but guess around 200 Kg, enough to ruin some-ones day if they are underneath it.

Actually, it was seeing the submariners video that prompted me to ask for more information. To my mind he seemed to make a bit of a production of the quill removal, only to end up just tapping it out of the head in the end! Was looking for a possible confirmation that it could be a relatively straight forward job. For an allegedly ubiquitous mill, there is very little info available.

I agree with Old Mart since there is no obvious retaining mechanism on the quill there may be no need to take the head off (head can be rotated 90 degrees about the vertical if the table is in the way). Once the ‘scotch yoke’ drill actuator and return spring guide / clamp plate are detached from the quill body, I believe the quill will either drop out or can be gently tapped out. After that, the bearing preload nut is removed and the spindle can be pressed out in the usual way.

I will update when I have investigated more. First thing to find will be my imperial allen keys somewhere in a huge pile of boxes!

Interestingly, price range for 32206A taper bearings is from £8 to £280. Even the same make and spec bearing can have a price range of over £50! I will settle on some mid price made in Europe/USA, SKF or Timkens at between £15 to 25.
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