Drilling holes in blades?

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Drilling holes in blades?

Home Forums The Tea Room Drilling holes in blades?

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  • #800405
    Bo’sun
    Participant
      @bosun58570

      Not a model engineering topic, but I’m certain one of you clever people will have the answer, or a least a suggestion or two.

      I want to drill 1/16″ ish holes in a 1/4″ bandsaw blade (high carbon steel with induction hardened teeth).  What type of drill bit or process would be my best option?

      I’ve drilled such steel with a sharpened masonry bit before, but somewhat bigger than 2mm.

      In case anyone’s wondering, I need blades for a Marples wooden bow/turning saw.

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      #800416
      Diogenes
      Participant
        @diogenes

        Anneal the very ends and go at it as normal.

        #800420
        DC31k
        Participant
          @dc31k

          How many holes? Would a punch and die work instead of a drill?

          You could also drill using the method that has previously worked for you and then make a bush to reduce the hole diameter.

          A carbide end mill would go through it but needs ridgidity. I would also be tempted to try a cheap carbide PCB (printed circuit board) drill (£0.59 each if bought in a multiple of ten from Amazon).

          #800421
          Vic
          Participant
            @vic

            I’m not sure if they go down to 1/16” but a Locksmith’s drill would do it. As would a carbide drill, but they can snap quite easily in the smaller sizes. Do let us know how you get on though if you manage to do the job.

            #800422
            John Haine
            Participant
              @johnhaine32865

              I have a set of cobalt drills for this type of job.

              #800426
              noel shelley
              Participant
                @noelshelley55608

                I might be tempted to use the spark eroder – nothing to break ! Noel.

                #800431
                JasonB
                Moderator
                  @jasonb

                  Way too much overthinking going on here as usual. There is a big clue in the question “high carbon steel with induction hardened teeth”

                  I would not use anything special to drill a bit of gauge plate or silver steel so why anything fancy or even spark eroders for this bit of carbon steel.

                  Get out the armchairs and give it a go.

                  Bog standard HSS 1/16″ drill that is past it’s best and in the rough work rack and a bit blunt, equally rough Naerok drill press, a bit of Sulphur containing CT90, no punch mark to start it and no skidding about. What could be easier. Hardest thing was holding the springy blade down, holding the camera and pulling the quill down with just two hands. Not even a bit of smoke to make it look like it was hard to drill

                   

                  #800440
                  DC31k
                  Participant
                    @dc31k
                    On JasonB Said:

                    and pulling the quill down with just two hands.

                    Maybe use only one hand on the quill and that would leave a couple free for the other tasks you mention.

                    #800444
                    JasonB
                    Moderator
                      @jasonb

                      I did use one on the quill, other held phone and blade.

                      Oh and if anyone was wondering the same HSS drill also goes through Eclipse hacksaw blades.

                      20250529_200332

                       

                      #800493
                      Diogenes
                      Participant
                        @diogenes

                        ..it wasn’t you that used to come to our local market and spend all morning drilling holes in files..?

                        #800494
                        JasonB
                        Moderator
                          @jasonb

                          Waste of a good file😉 I never did buy anthing on those type of guys.

                          #800513
                          Bo’sun
                          Participant
                            @bosun58570

                            Thanks for your thoughts.  Holding the “springy” blade down shouldn’t be too difficult as the blades are only 400mm long and need to be straight for the bow saw.

                            Just curious Jason, but why use an old decommissioned drill bit?

                            Any advantage with high cobalt drill bits for this?  I ask because the blades will only be 1/4″ wide and the “heat affected zone” may be a significant portion of the blades width.

                            #800524
                            JasonB
                            Moderator
                              @jasonb

                              It was nearest to the drill press and also illustrates that nothing special was needed. If i’d have picked up a good one then it would have been coated and split point but the example was just plain black steam tempered and normal point.

                              The first hole drilled on the video which is second from the right was quite close to the heat zone so I’d just try a normal drill unless you have a suitable cobalt one to hand rather than buy something that may not be needed.

                              #800545
                              JasonB
                              Moderator
                                @jasonb

                                Seems OK near the edge too, that’s an Axcaliber blade of some sort.

                                20250530_113733

                                #800552
                                Bo’sun
                                Participant
                                  @bosun58570

                                  Thanks Jason.

                                  #800566
                                  Vic
                                  Participant
                                    @vic

                                    I tried to drill an Eclipse power hacksaw blade a while ago and a HSS bit hardly touched it. I sharpened a TCT masonry bit and that went through ok.

                                    Edit: Not ideal but I’ve also used TCT Glass drills for hard stuff before.

                                    #800567
                                    JasonB
                                    Moderator
                                      @jasonb

                                      Quite possibly because their power hack saw blades tend to be HSS not carbon steel with hardened teeth that the OP wants to drill.

                                      all hard

                                      #800575
                                      Bo’sun
                                      Participant
                                        @bosun58570

                                        I’m in the process of ordering some blades from Tuff Saws.  I’ll let you know how I get on.

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