You can rivet the corner pieces to the front and back buffer beam, and then use nuts and bolts to fix to the frames.

The spacers along the length of the frame, if cast, I fixed with c/sunk hex drive screws.

Counter sink all rivets outside and use a ball head dolly inside. Dummy rivets are used on the Buffer beams for visual effect.

I dont think there is any set method of doing it, just think through what bit you are doing and if you have to dismantle later.

Clive

On my shunter I did as Clive suggests – I riveted each angle piece to its stretcher or buffer beam, and used countersunk 5BA screws to fix these to the frames. I later worked out that countersunk M3 screws were much cheaper.

Once all was fine and dany, I filled the screwheads with isopon, let it set and scraped flat with a model knife.

Neil

Hi Monk, I think the "preferred method" is which one that you would like yourself, but do bear in mind what has been said about any dismantling that may be needed. Whichever method you use, it should not be sloppy in the holes, nor should you have force them through or have any shear forces on them.

The idea of bolts or rivets is for these to be in tension, thus applying enough friction between the two parts to transmit all the forces from one part to the other. The effect is they act as one solid part, and no shear forces are applyed to the fixings.

Regards Nick.

Again, choice is yours. Lock nuts or plain Hex. nuts are both suitable and as long as its dismountable it will be OK.

Thread lock would use on the final assembly, somethiing like 242 or such, no need to lock it up tight forever.

Clive

If you can pick up a job lot of old Model Engineers and read through the build articles it will give you this kind of detail. Also you might find one of the loco build books even if not your loco will have lots of applicable info.