I have such breeze blocks and I use rawbolts or hefty wall plugs for fixings. Simply drill the holes and coat the fixing with eurathane glue (gorilla glue). Doesn't matter if the fixings are a tad loose, when the eurathane glue sets, it expands and the fixings are very firm. I can load up shelving with very large and weighty kit and experience no problems.

Andrew.

Even 'thermalite' blocks can take a lot of weight with the correct fixings. They are also available in different densitys. If it is a cavity wall with insulation in the cavity, the building inspector won't (in my experience)  specify the block used and you can simply use concrete blocks.

Edited By Gavlar on 03/02/2023 19:41:36

I converted a large brick built garage into a workshop. I lined mine with a sandwich of 70mm Celotex over battons with a surface ‘skin’ of 12mm MDF. This allowed me to run my power cables down the gap and then out at appropriate points. I have 2 cuts, a heavy duty one in 4mm and a more normal 2.5mm. Probably around a dozen double outlets in total. When I want to fix anything to the wall I just screw straight into the MDF. The idea came from the kitchen fitters trick of lining the walls with sheet material first and then screwing everything to that.

regards Martin

I used concrete blocks as an inner skin in my workshop as advised by my very good builder. His reasoning was that they take a better fixing in a workshop than thermalite blocks. On reflection I don't believe that I have fixed anything  that couldn't be adequately fixed in thermalite blocks. In view of the cost of energy I think it would be better to gain every advantage you can. It may also be that a change in use in the future would also benefit from good insulation.

Edited By Sakura on 03/02/2023 22:23:23