Chuck nuts……

This topic has 29 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 10 November 2013 at 17:09 by Howard Lewis.

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18 October 2013 at 16:04 #22903
Rik Shaw
Participant
@rikshaw
……..in search of the perfect nut.
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18 October 2013 at 16:04 #132979
Rik Shaw
Participant
@rikshaw
Going back a long time I seem to remember using a type of nut which had a captive rotating washer built in. The underside of the "washer" was serrated so as to grip when the nut was tightened. I'd like to replace the holding nuts and washers on the chuck on my WARCO lathe with nuts as described to make the job of attaching the chuck a little less fiddly.

So – does anyone know the generic name for this type of nut?

Rik
18 October 2013 at 16:26 #132980
john kennedy 1
Participant
@johnkennedy1
Combi nuts with captive washers … John
18 October 2013 at 16:30 #132981
john kennedy 1
Participant
@johnkennedy1
I've tried them on my 250 and found it no quicker. My main problem is that the chucks are so tight on the register that most of the time is spent easing the chucks off. I can change,from start to finish in 4 minutes.
18 October 2013 at 16:33 #132982
Lambton
Participant
@lambton
Rik,

I know what you mean but I have not seen any on offer for years. They were often in small sizes on electrical terminals where they performed very well especially if using stranded wire.

The closest I can find now are as you describe but without the rotation bit. They are called Flange Nuts. I use them on the chucks of my small Hobbymat lathe and find they make chuck changing much easier. They are widely available in all the standard metric sizes.

If you find any with rotating washer please let us all know!

Eric
18 October 2013 at 17:10 #132983
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Several people use the flanged nuts that ARC do though I just use nuts and separate washers on the 280. Don't think the serations will be much good as the flange is slightly hardened.

John on my 3 jaw that wa very tight on the register I cut a shallow 1deg taper for most of the length of the socket in the backplate so once its been jacked off about 2mm it is free from then on. I can do a change in just over 60secs.

J
18 October 2013 at 17:32 #132987
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Rik,

For bicycle wheel axles, they are sold as "Track Nuts"

… available here, but you should find them a little cheaper.

Hope that's the right size.

MichaelG.
18 October 2013 at 17:46 #132989
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Track nuts are likely to have too fine a thread on them and also be a bit to tall, you can usually only just get a slim nut and washer into the available space.
18 October 2013 at 18:38 #132994
john kennedy 1
Participant
@johnkennedy1
Jason,Thanks for that tip but don't know if I've got the guts to do that. Suppose its only a lead and it should still centralise on the last bit Hmm might try it.. John
18 October 2013 at 18:51 #132995
ASF
Participant
@asf
Are the items you`re looking for called K-nuts ? Look at google for suppliers.
18 October 2013 at 19:55 #133001
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Thats it John, the chuck still registers on the last couple of mm but does not need levering off or jacking with the nuts.

Put the 4-jaw on the spindle, clock a 1" bar true and then tighten the 3-jaw onto that bar and cut the taper in the back plate. If you really stuff it up at worse its only a new backplate.

The 4-jaw I just skimmed a fraction off but kept the bore parallel as its not critical if it moves about on teh spigot within reason..
18 October 2013 at 20:15 #133005
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by JasonB on 18/10/2013 17:46:49:

… you can usually only just get a slim nut and washer into the available space.

.

Did someone actually "design" it like that ?

MichaelG.
18 October 2013 at 20:16 #133006
Ziggar
Participant
@ziggar
flange nuts

search ebay for them – millions on there
18 October 2013 at 20:26 #133007
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by ASF on 18/10/2013 18:51:52:

Are the items you`re looking for called K-nuts ? Look at google for suppliers.

.

K-nuts are similar, but the flanged "washer" part is fixed in relation to the nut.

Rik specifically asked about nuts with "a captive rotating washer".

However, as JasonB has explained, Track Nuts probably wouldn't fit.

K-nuts might be OK but do please note the serrations on the underside [they are not really designed for repeated removal & re-fitting].

MichaelG.
18 October 2013 at 20:54 #133011
ASF
Participant
@asf
Ok then… k lock nuts **LINK**
18 October 2013 at 20:57 #133012
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
There is no need for these nuts to have a method of locking, the reason Rik is asking for ones with an captive washer is to save dropping the washers into the swarf tray when you are changing chucks.

J
18 October 2013 at 21:49 #133016
Rik Shaw
Participant
@rikshaw
JasonB – Roger to your last.

Rik
19 October 2013 at 02:17 #133025
Ady1
Participant
@ady1
flange nuts, search ebay for them – millions on there

swivel flange nuts seem to be what he's after
19 October 2013 at 07:32 #133029
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Except they will be too tall and are not metric
19 October 2013 at 09:29 #133032
Ady1
Participant
@ady1
Maybe a small person in Europe will start to make them one day in the future
19 October 2013 at 11:00 #133042
mechman48
Participant
@mechman48
Had a look at Ady1 link for swivel flange nuts, could be the answer, but they are the wrong thread…1/4 x 20 & no metric sizes. I have replaced mine with 8 mm SS flange nuts & don't have to worry about dropping the washer into the swarf, not bothered how fast I can change the chuck as long as it's on correctly & secure. Don't know why the Chinese have to make the gap so close to the headstock, an extra 6 mm in the gap would do wonders for our fat fingers (well mine anyway) but at the mo' flange nuts are the way to go.

George
19 October 2013 at 11:13 #133044
Ian P
Participant
@ianp
This may be heresy, but…

Why do you need washers?

Best way to make a racing car accelerate and brake better is to discard all the unnecessary washers!

I would make some nuts out of a dissimilar metal, say SS or Brass. I see that the mounting flange was mentioned as being hardened? For a spring or serrated washer to work it has to bite into the surfaces so its unlikely that is going to happen anyway.

Ian P
19 October 2013 at 11:24 #133045
Old School
Participant
@oldschool
I use flange nuts for holding the chuck on my Myford 254S and they work well. They are the same type of nuts as used in milling machine clamping sets and are available from Arc Euro.
19 October 2013 at 11:30 #133046
Keith Long
Participant
@keithlong89920
These folk do metric swivel flange nuts (not sure if the size you want is there) as well as a heck of a lot of other useful bits and pieces for machines and jigs. I've found their prices very reasonable and very quick delivery as well – just a very satisfied customer

Keith
19 October 2013 at 15:18 #133063
Rik Shaw
Participant
@rikshaw
This is an update to my original post. I managed to find three flanged nuts in my junk box with the wrong thread which I re-drilled and tapped 8mm to suit the studding on the back of the WM250V-F chuck.

Now I know this is a simple idea but it works. Drilled a 1/2" hole in the end of the strip of ally (nuts are just under 1/2" across the corners. De-burred and inserted nut in hole and checked for freeness of rotation – bit sticky so lapped the nut into the hole on both sides with grinding paste using pistol drill and a handy caphead screw. Cleaned and repeated process with Solvol Autosol. End result is a nut that rotates smoothly and freely in the 1/2" hole.

With the chuck in position, offer up the first nut to the end of a stud so…….

……..flick the edge of the flange toward you – I use the electricians screwdriver – and after a few minutes practise you should be able to start the nuts on the thread every time.

My bit of ally is only 10cm long but to make it more comfortable to hold it should be twice that length.

Something like a caphead screwed into the strip 2"-3" from the 1/2" hole might allow the head to act as a pivot point between the machine casing and provide a little more leverage although I have not tried that yet.

Rik
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