I have a three bearing puller which can also be used as an internal puller, I also have a two legged puller, whether you use a three or two legged puller is down to whether either will fit. Machine Mart sell a flat plated puller with various legs, part no 040810698, I have one and it works well.

Martin P

Sykes Pickavant are probably one of the best names in pulling equipment but prices are high. The bearing described is unlikely to present much of a challenge even to a cheapish puller. My personal preference is for a 3 legged puller but check the access for the legs of the puller, some have quite chunky ends and space can be tight, I have had to modify the ends to get into position on occasion. My apprentice made puller has served me well for nearly 50 years and it is made from mild steel.

Mike

Hi, I have one similar to this Gear Puller which works OK on most bearings.

Although this one is more like mine Hydraulic Puller

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 28/02/2021 23:17:17

I have an inexpensive set of 3 which came with a small, medium and large puller, no its not the best quality but it works fine. I couldn't see the point in buying an expensive puller when it's something I will seldom use, in fact I haven't used it in the last 2 years.

Agree with NDIY that for a one time job making rather than buying is a good option.

I'd take inspiration from something like this :- **LINK**

Many, many years ago I made one with simple arms fixed to the cross bar at the right distance apart dropping down to hook over the bearing with something spectacularly crude to stop them springing apart. Usual thing. Sunday morning, had to be done for Monday and the only puller much younger Clive had to hand wasn't quite wide enough!

Although I have one of the multi arm 2 & 3 legged spider sets like Nicks' link and Pauls' picture, expensive Pickavant too, I'm no great fan. All too often the leg ends are too cumbersome, the angle of dangle is unfortunate, assembly takes longer than I'd like (especially if I get one leg wrong way round!) and the thing flops about in 86 different directions simultaneously when trying to fit it.

Much prefer legs solidly fixed to the cross bar.

If you do make one use a fine thread on the bolt.

Clive

Had sykes pickavant for over 40 years, with the right parts you can pull anything, very good but pricey. The hydraulic unit must never be hit with a hammer !

The job in hand, a Metre of 10 or 12 mm threaded rod and a bit of imagination should do the trick. It depends on where the bearing is and what access you have. A plate may be 10mm thick 3 holes at 120* to suit rod and a second with a U shaped hole to suit shaft and an OD such as to allow the 3 rod to sit round the bearing. 6 nuts slowly and equally tightened and tapping the top plate with a hammer – should work ! Good luck Noel.

Edited By noel shelley on 01/03/2021 12:03:35

Almost nothing has ever defeated my Sykes Pickavant pullers. (Only Ford halfshaft bearings, until the retaining ring had been split and removed )

When removing or fitting rolling bearings, the force should be applied to the inner or outer track (whichever is fixed on the shaft or in the housing ), if the bearing is not to be damaged.

If the bearing is to be replaced, it does not matter so much, but if the bearing disintegrates, it can be difficult removing just the inner track from the shaft. Believe me!!!!!!!!!!

When direct access behind the bearing is not possible, the type m,of puller consisting bof two halves, clamped together behind the bearing has to be used. If making your own puller:

It needs to be strong enough not to bend under the applied load. If in doubt, make it thicker!

If the forcing thread is not central, at least two symmetrically placed ones will be needed, being equally tightened in small stages.

I have seen 1" channel bend under the load applied by a 1/2 BSF thread when trying to remove a brakedrum from the taper on a semi floating halfshaft!

Heat can help!

Howard

Hi, if the bearing falls apart and leaves the inner race on the shaft, holding the shaft vertical with the inner race towards the floor and then heating the inner race with a oxy/acetylene welding torch or maybe even one of this type of Blow Torch, will very often allow the inner race to just drop off, but heat as much area of the race as you can, without directing too much heat onto the shaft, you can stand the shaft in a pot of water close to the race, to help stop the shaft getting hot too quickly. If it doesn't drop off before it does get too hot, you'll have to let the whole thing cool down and then try again, if it still doesn't move you'll have to resort to cutting or drifting it off. If you do drift it off, use a piece of mild steel bar, don't use brass as it will splinter bits of brass of the bar and don't hit the race with a hammer either.

Regards Nick.

Hi Howard, if you mean the outer race with no way of getting behind it, then yes, run a few beads of weld inside the track and then let it cool down and the race will shrink, done that a number of times.

Another way for really stubborn ones, is to get a piece of thickish flat bar or a disc that fits inside the race, drill a hole in it and tack a bolt in and then weld the bar onto the race and using a short piece of tube a little bigger than the race and another piece of bar /disc, wind it out with the a nut on the bolt.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 01/03/2021 18:50:27