Best quality M2 taps

This topic has 26 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 25 July 2017 at 16:47 by Andrew Tinsley.

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16 July 2017 at 02:08 #307362
Brian John
Participant
@brianjohn93961
What brands of M2 taps do members use ? I never have any trouble with M3 or larger taps but I have had a few M2 taps break. Brass and cast iron are usually okay but steels often cause problems. I use plenty of Tap Magic and I go very slowly, about 1/8 turn at a time….back and forward…..but I still sometimes get a broken tap.
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16 July 2017 at 02:08 #18586
Brian John
Participant
@brianjohn93961
Strongest and least likely to break.
16 July 2017 at 06:33 #307365
Thor 🇳🇴
Participant
@thor
Hi Brian,

I have a few non branded serial taps that work well, but not as well as my Dormer taps. Have you tried using 1.7mm tapping drills in steel?

Thor
16 July 2017 at 07:18 #307372
richard 2
Participant
@richard2
Morning Brian

Have just tapped a number of M2 holes – PRESTO taps from Cutwell.

Excellent taps and superb service.

No relation – just a very satisfied customer.

Richard 2.
16 July 2017 at 08:08 #307381
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Although I have dormneones in teh larger sizes they get a bit spendy as the size reduces so I use Volkel ones M2.5 and below, usually get them from Rotagrip via their e-bay shop
16 July 2017 at 08:15 #307382
Neil Lickfold
Participant
@neillickfold44316
Using a 1.7mm drill does help a lot to make the taps last longer. Especially when tapping steel.

Neil
16 July 2017 at 08:57 #307388
speelwerk
Participant
@speelwerk
Posted by JasonB on 16/07/2017 08:08:40:

Although I have dormneones in teh larger sizes they get a bit spendy as the size reduces so I use Volkel ones M2.5 and below, usually get them from Rotagrip via their e-bay shop

Small size good quality taps are indeed spendy, the time you bougth them in the hardware store around the corner is long gone. I returned the 1.4mm ones from Bergeon since 110 euro ex. VAT was a shock. Niko.
16 July 2017 at 09:11 #307393
Chris Evans 6
Participant
@chrisevans6
Plus 1 for Volkel and Rotagrip.
16 July 2017 at 09:43 #307399
Brian John
Participant
@brianjohn93961
Yes, I always go up to 1.7mm when tapping into steels.
16 July 2017 at 10:16 #307408
Neil Lickfold
Participant
@neillickfold44316
I have found on small stuff the tapping compound makes a difference. I like the old Tap magic and the other that is good is Relton Rapid tap fluid.

Neil
16 July 2017 at 11:37 #307427
Gary Wooding
Participant
@garywooding25363
I created THIS PDF some years ago. It presents a set of tables comprising: Metric/Inch conversions, and tap/drill sizes of Metric, Imperial, B.A., and BSP threads. The tapping sizes are calculated to give a 65% thread engagement for sizes up to about 3/8", and 70-75% thereafter, as per Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook. The sizes are not copied from the book (which contains at least one error) but are calculated from scratch.

The PDF consists of 2 pages that I've printed on both sides of a single sheet and laminated to make a useful workshop crib sheet. It's my "goto" source of information for threading data.
16 July 2017 at 14:01 #307452
Brian John
Participant
@brianjohn93961
The charts I have used in the past give the tap drill as 1.6mm. That PDF gives the tap drill for 2 x 0.4 as 1.7mm. So should I still be ''going up a size'' to 1.8mm when tapping into steel or use 1.7mm for all metals including brass ?

Edited By Brian John on 16/07/2017 14:02:34
16 July 2017 at 14:45 #307456
Gary Wooding
Participant
@garywooding25363
Posted by Brian John on 16/07/2017 14:01:17:

The charts I have used in the past give the tap drill as 1.6mm. That PDF gives the tap drill for 2 x 0.4 as 1.7mm. So should I still be ''going up a size'' to 1.8mm when tapping into steel or use 1.7mm for all metals including brass ?

No, the calculation for M2/0.4 is for a 65% thread engagement. I've used it in steel many times.
16 July 2017 at 14:56 #307459
SillyOldDuffer
Moderator
@sillyoldduffer
Posted by Gary Wooding on 16/07/2017 11:37:46:

I created THIS PDF some years ago.

….

Thanks Gary; copy taken!

Cheers,

Dave
16 July 2017 at 15:03 #307462
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
I think it would be helpful IF when you are talking about taps you state whether you are using straight or spiral fluted taps.

There is no doubt that spiral fluted taps clear the chip better than straight, especially as you get smaller diameter.
17 July 2017 at 05:53 #307536
Brian John
Participant
@brianjohn93961
Are spiral fluted M2 taps likely to be any stronger than straight fluted M2 taps ? There can't be much difference.

Why do we make straight fluted taps if spiral taps clear the chip better ?

Edited By Brian John on 17/07/2017 05:56:27
17 July 2017 at 09:03 #307547
roy entwistle
Participant
@royentwistle24699
Why do we make straight fluted taps if spiral taps clear the chip better ?

Obviously cheaper to produce

Roy
17 July 2017 at 11:29 #307567
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Hi Brian, you'll likely find the ones most available will be Australian made Sutton brand, they seem to be fairly good. For brass, copper, aluminium, and any ductile metal the strongest taps are the Threadflo type of fluteless taps.

Ian S C
17 July 2017 at 11:37 #307568
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
Spiral flute taps flow the cut material forwards in the case of spiral point and backwards in the case of the spiral flute, practically none stays fixed in the flute like a straight flute, hence less jams and breaks.
17 July 2017 at 12:32 #307572
SillyOldDuffer
Moderator
@sillyoldduffer
Posted by Brian John on 16/07/2017 02:08:16:

…

I go very slowly, about 1/8 turn at a time….back and forward…..but I still sometimes get a broken tap.

I too break small taps. Being weedy little things they're vulnerable to jamming due to swarf, not being straight in the hole, and going blunt. My breakage rate dropped after:
1. Using a tap stand to keep the tap at right angles to the hole
2. Taking the tap out completely every few turns (or as soon as it resists) and removing swarf from the flutes and hole. I find Steel and Aluminium swarf more troublesome than Brass.
3. In steel, over-sizing the hole (unless strength matters)
4. Dumping taps as soon as they show any sign of bluntness.
Depending on how it feels, I usually make more than 1/8 turn reversals, perhaps up to a full turn. I look for the point where I get a tiny snick on reversing the tap. Not sure if that's right but it works for me.

Dave
17 July 2017 at 15:39 #307585
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
The tiny snick is the large "chip" being broken away from the parent material
18 July 2017 at 03:15 #307672
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
The thing with Threadflo taps in ductile materials is that there is no chips, the thread is formed by pressure as are external rolled threads, the thread will be stronger than a cut one. no good on most steels, or cast iron, but ok on most stainless steels.

Ian S C
18 July 2017 at 07:37 #307679
Chris Evans 6
Participant
@chrisevans6
It has been years since I last broke a tap. I always use a tapping paste rather than any of the liquid tapping agents as I do not find the liquid as effective. As stated above back off a good turn to break the chip, 1/8th of a turn is just the movement of the flute and not cutting the chip. If taps start to feel tight on winding them out it is time to bin them.
20 July 2017 at 15:09 #308007
Phil Boyland
Participant
@philboyland37326
Another vote for Volkel. Brilliant and HSS too.
20 July 2017 at 17:40 #308022
IanT
Participant
@iant
Yes Chris,

If you mean the 'green' stuff (Trefolex) – give me some of that every time!

IanT
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