When is MT2 not an MT2 arbor

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Hi All

Firstly, as a newbie I'm more than impressed with the help and advice – all gratefully received – having been a member of a few fora this by far is the most friendly

Jason is right, I was doing totally the *wrong* thing, lesson learnt and more to come

Machine has been modified for CNC which was all working until the PC died – won't boot which is another story, I have a spare and will get it sorted soon

Thanks especially to John C for the PM and link

Now if I only had time to attend a class to learn how to use my equipment, full time job and separate business take all my time retirement? Never!

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Ed Duffner on 16/07/2017 17:51:22:

S.O.D is your draw-bar setup ok? I also have a Warco and the collar with the two flats goes over the end of the draw-bar to lock down on the shoulder, at least on mine it does. ???

Cheers,
Ed.

3rd time posting this (PC keeps freezing).

Dunno Ed, now I'm worried!!!

Could you post a photo of yours please? My mill is a WM18 and I don't think the drawbar set-up is unusual. I think I'm doing it right but as no-one showed me how, it could be yet another cock-up …

Dave

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

​Dave,
​I have the WM16 , your draw bar configuration is different to mine, yours has the large collar on it whereas mine is machined smaller. Looking at the pics could you not machine the collar down to fit inside the steel 'top hat' as I think yours screws onto the spindle as mine does thus making yourself a 'self ejecting' drawbar…

​My configuration…

I reckon you've got your set up wrong… as you put the tool MT2 in the spindle you should be nipping down onto the top of the spindle with the bottom of the draw bar collar, only snug it though, put the steel 'top hat' on & screw it down on the spindle thread 'till it seats on the top of the spindle. when you want to change tooling you unscrew the draw bar up until the top of the collar meets the internal underside of the steel 'top hat' & forces the tapers apart… no need for a hammer at all…

George

Edited By mechman48 on 16/07/2017 18:35:46

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Yep, mine's the same as George's (WM-16), I added some photos to an album

Maybe the WM-18 has a different arrangement?

Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 16/07/2017 18:34:06

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

My other draw bar is the 3/8" & that has the collar that fits inside the steel 'top hat' too…

George.

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

I’d be interested in how you get on with CNC control of a slitting saw – the catch with these operated in a horizontal mode is that the swarf doesn’t eject that easily, the saw teeth jam and the motor controller goes into to shutdown (hopefully with just the yellow alarm lamp on but such jams have been known to burn out the controller – I was told the early boards were prone to this) – its not easy to use cutting fluid but if you can rig up an air blower it does help – also don’t use the keyway that comes with the arbour but rely on friction to hold saw blade which can then slip rather than totally jam – also I found you need to be careful in choice of saw blade – some have the centre hole not coaxial with the saw, others have the centre hole too large allowing the saw blade to move – with the rather low power you need many small teeth taking very small cuts; using hand control I would back off at regular short intervals to clear the swarf – it does however depend on what you intend to machine

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I have a feeling Andy will be using the arbor to hold gear cutters as in another thread that is what he wanted to make. So the CNC will just be a fancy power feed. Quite a few of the cheapo MOD cutters are 22mm bore.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Interesting George and Ed. I'd assumed that the WM18 was just a slightly larger version of the WM16. Looks like the drawbar on the WM18 is more primitive. I wonder what else is different?

Here's what my spindle top looks like with the cover off:

The black disk with holes in it is for the rpm display. Turning the two flatted nut moves the whole spindle; it doesn't seem to unscrew. Compared with your WM16 photos the WM18 spindle top is relatively flat. It's different. I think I'm OK but will be re-reading the manual to make sure!

Wouldn't be the first time I missed something obvious. I moaned about the poor display on a Video Recorder for 5 years before realising that someone (ahem) had failed to remove the protective film when he unpacked it.

Dave

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 16/07/2017 21:29:41:

Wouldn't be the first time I missed something obvious. I moaned about the poor display on a Video Recorder for 5 years before realising that someone (ahem) had failed to remove the protective film when he unpacked it.

My Grandmother has a Moskavitch estate, with only one 'luxury' item – leather seats. In many years she never removed the transparent plastic covers it arrived with. When she finally sold it to my dad, the first thing he did was take off the plastic bags!

Neil

[Anonymous]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 16/07/2017 22:10:09:

My Grandmother has a Moskavitch estate, with only one 'luxury' item – leather seats.

Good grief, must be 30 years since I drove a Moskavitch. Built like a tank and drove like one too, but simple and indestructable. My mate reckoned he could change an engine in under half an hour. Although it did involve unceremoniously tipping the car onto its side with a JCB and then dropping it back down again after the engine had been swapped.

Andrew

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

As already said, NEVER use a key with a Slitting Saw. If the saw jams, you could have some sharp bits of metal flying about. Without a key, if the saw jams, the drive will slip, so little or no harm done.

Howard

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

And never use a steel hammer directly on a steel drawbar to loosen a tapered tool. Always use a softer headed mallet or a softer material between. That way the spindle bearings are far less likely to get damaged (the drawbar nut can be dressed or changed easily and does not affect the mill operation, whereas damaged bearings are bad news.

[Author]

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