What spray do you use to stop your tools from rusting?

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

Hello

What do you use to stop your steel tools from rusting? (as well as lightly lubricate and clean them)

e.g.
– WD-40? (but never dries… washes off quite easily)
– Boeshield T-9 spray? (hard to source in the UK)

J

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Nothing as they don't

Have a look at this recent thread

 

Edited By JasonB on 27/10/2021 12:19:12

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

For me it's not so much stop them rusting as fix it when they do. I find a patch of green scotchbrite or suchlike with a good spray of WD40 will usually get it off as if it had never been. In the worst cases there's just-visible roughness when the light's in the right direction, but never anything measurable. Perhaps I just don't let it get bad enough.

[martin haysomParticipant @martinhaysom48469]

a dry workshop

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

Posted by JasonB on 27/10/2021 12:18:12:

Nothing as they don't

Have a look at this recent thread

Edited By JasonB on 27/10/2021 12:19:12

Yes, lots of chat about how to avoid the need…

However due to lack of indoor space, I am compelled to keep a number of my tools outside in weather proof storage boxes or a garden shed. Where possible, I then house them inside Really Useful Boxes, which breath just enough to prevent most condensation. Perhaps surprisingly, most of the time this has worked remarkably well, given the damp UK climate I live in.

But either way, I still need something with which to clean and lubricate my tools. And either way, finger prints can cause corrosion.

Fwiw, I have been using WD-40 but it's a dated general purpose product which I don't think ever dries, making it rather messy and TBH I don't much care for the aroma… worse, in practice my large V-blocks keep rusting from fingerprints despite an occasional wiping down & polishing off with WD-40… and I'm feel in my bones that something better must exist, no?

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Line your drawers with VCI paper; If it gets uncomfortable transfer it to your tool boxes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=vci+paper&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=VPI+paper&_osacat=0

As mentioned on your other thread Motorex Protect works well
https://www.motorex.com/en-us/moto-protect-spray–28154?category=5724

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 27/10/2021 12:43:16

[JAParticipant @ja]

Although my workshop is dry I use plastic air tight food containers from the local supermarket and small "jam" jars to keep parts safe. I put a little oil in the jars and use vapour plastic bags in the boxes.

I have found that VCI paper left a thin green corrosion deposit on brass. I phoned the manufacturer of the paper about this and they were most helpful. They recommended the plastic bags since their paper was not suitable for brass.

JA

[John Paton 1Participant @johnpaton1]

Ambersil corrosion inhibitor – as used by the Navy I believe.

It leaves a thin and slightly tacky film so is not great in dusty environments. I apply it using a trigger spray bottle.

Last year when I was moving house I had to store my garage and workshop items in a draughty, unheated industrial unit with a leaky roof. Fortunately Ambersil did just what not said on the tin and WD40 seems to clean it off easily now I am 'home and dry'.

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

As others have mentioned elsewhere, you need to be careful about using anything completely "air tight" because in colder conditions you run the risk of condensation.

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

Posted by peak4 on 27/10/2021 12:42:58:

Line your drawers with VCI paper; If it gets uncomfortable transfer it to your tool boxes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=vci+paper&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=VPI+paper&_osacat=0

As mentioned on your other thread Motorex Protect works well
https://www.motorex.com/en-us/moto-protect-spray–28154?category=5724

Bill

Bill I see you have been fan of Motorex for a while.

According to that link it works by leaving "a fine film of oil" behind.

Yes, Motorex Moto Protect looks interesting, and is certainly cheaper & easier to obtain than Boeshield t-9 spray.
How tacky is it when dry? (I don't want anything tacky but a fine waxy film would be fine)
Does it still lubricate over time / when 'dry'?
Can you use it to clean tools? (like you can with WD-40)
In practise, do you feel the need to remove it before using a hand tool? If so how would you remove it?
 

Edited By John Smith 47 on 27/10/2021 13:26:58

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Cromwells used to sell Solent corrosion inhibitor but I can't seem to find it, so now use Ambersil.

[Nick WheelerParticipant @nickwheeler]

Have you considered putting reusable desiccant packs in your boxes?

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Camelia oil leaves a dry film and helps prevent rust. Good for woodworking tools as well.

However cannot suggest a "cure" for rusty fingers, fortunately I do not have that problem and do not cause any such marking.

[Oily RagParticipant @oilyrag]

Rocol Moisture Guard! Green semi drying spray used by most grinding companies to protect finishes which rust surprisingly quickly at this time of year. Good for 5 years – so it says on the tin. Just checked my reground lathe ways, which are in the shed wrapped in grease proof paper, and they are perfect.

Cleans off easily with brake cleaner or white spirit.

Martin

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Heavily insulated workshop with all machines covered at night with old plastic sheeting and bags that originally contained sand/ ballast/ gardening peat or similar. Some heat on most of year round as if I turn it off, liable to absent mindedly forget to switch back on. One mill has 4 old style lamps, 60W wired in series in a protective wooden box, lathe has tubular heater on thermostat and a timer. Workshop always cosy nothing that's protected rusts. Hygrometer shows 60% humidity this afternoon and temperature 80F. Heat only goes up so high when using machines with heat of the drive motors. Doesn't take long to cover/uncover machines with the plastic sheeting and bags, but I only do the machine that I want to use. Lot of tools kept in spare bedroom with the benefit of central heating. Second mill, bandsaw, massive bench drill, linisher, workbench, all covered but no heater. I find that the 2 machines which are covered and have a heater, keep the whole shed warm – 10 X 8ft, so not a great volume. Cheapest would probably be to oil/lanoline all and cover and check regularly.

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Hi John

I use a spray called ACF50 I get it from Demon Tweeks, it dries clear and seems to last for ages, originally used it to stop the alloy rims on my motorbike corroding, now use it on everything.

I live fairly close to the sea and without using it rust appears very quickly, this does the trick, got a dehumidifier but the salt air used to start corrosion quickly, this seems to stave it off.

Dave

[Tim HammondParticipant @timhammond72264]

+1 for ACF 50. I used it extensively when I had a motorbike, but use it now as anti-corrosive / lubricant on virtually everything – in fact I was using it on the catches and hinges on my windows this morning. The makers claim that it's safe with most plastics and rubbers and I have experienced no problems over many years of using the product. Also, like Dave, I live very near to the sea, and it's worked well.

[R Johns 1Participant @rjohns1]

My grandads shipwright tools dating from WWII are now in my shed. In addition to a wipe over with oil I have kept up his tradition of keeping moth balls in the tool chest. No idea of the chemistry but I have no rusted tools.

Elmo

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Spray / wipe with oil, to prevent moisture and air contacting the steel..

For long term storage, intermittent use (Verniers, etc Shouldn't be left outside in boxes!. ) you could use Waxoyl, or Lanolin. Both need warming to thin for easier wiping and coating.

Howard.

[Jon LawesParticipant @jonlawes51698]

I use duck oil, but it would appear I'm on my own on that one!

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

At the moment, I am using approx 0.75 units of leccy per day. Mainly to dehumidify my workshop. I reckon these sprays and what-have-you will likely exceed the cost of the leccy used for my whole workshop?

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by John Smith 47 on 27/10/2021 13:24:01:

Bill I see you have been fan of Motorex for a while.

According to that link it works by leaving "a fine film of oil" behind.

Yes, Motorex Moto Protect looks interesting, and is certainly cheaper & easier to obtain than Boeshield t-9 spray.
How tacky is it when dry? (I don't want anything tacky but a fine waxy film would be fine)
Does it still lubricate over time / when 'dry'?
Can you use it to clean tools? (like you can with WD-40)
In practise, do you feel the need to remove it before using a hand tool? If so how would you remove it?

Edited By John Smith 47 on 27/10/2021 13:26:58

Moto Protect is not particularly tacky when dry in the same way that other sprays may be; it leaves a clear film which you hardly notice if you wipe it on/off with a rag which is damp with the stuff.
I use it for maintaining mirror polished carbon steel knife blades as well as on the motorbike(s), wiped on the knives, sprayed on the bikes.
The knives, like tools, stay in a reasonably clean environment, so stay clean themselves; Bikes get ridden, and it does seem to hold onto road and brake dust, but it just wipes off.
I'm out of stock at the moment, so I can't show any photos of it newly applied, but it doesn't need any cleaning off before use, other than a wipe over with a rag, like any other slightly oily product would do.
You could use it for cleaning things like WD40 etc, but it's considerably dearer, as I buy WD by the gallon.

I'm also a devotee of ACF-50 and its thicker companion (Corrosion Block), but didn't recommend it for tool protection in your case, as it certainly does leave a deposit. It would work well for putting a lathe in storage, and creeps quite well onto/into any missed bits.
It protects ferrous and non ferrous effectively, and was designed for the aviation industry with a price to match. (about £25 for 0.97l)
A couple of days ago I pressure treated the underneath and insides of the Landrover chassis etc.
I did the Disco and the van the week before; I use a schultz gun and a paraffin wash sprayer to apply it.
It works at a molecular level at the rust/iron interface, to kill corrosion and is gradually consumed over a year or so and needs reapplying at least annually.

Another product I use is Ballistol Universal oil, which seems popular with the shooting fraternity.
It claims to be compatible with plastics, wood, and leather, but originates in Germany, so post Brexit is harder to find in the UK, though some outdoor/countyside shops stock it, as well as gunsmiths.
I understand it's also used by instrument makers/repairers (mechanical that is as opposed to musical)
It does leave a rather odd lingering smell though, but it passes after a while.
https://ballistol.co.uk/

Bill

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

I've had a quick look at Ballistol, ACF-50 and Boesheild T-9. They all sound quite compelling.

In truth it sounds like there are a fair number of fine oils that one could use that would stop corrosion quite well in a workshop situation. However I don't like the idea of something which stays sticky, attracts dirt and gets basically everywhere.

Ballistol
I may be incorrect but Ballistol Universal Oil sounds like even after it has been applied as a thin film that it stays liquid. It also claims to create "an alkaline film" which helps stops corrosion from hand sweat. Intriguingly they claim that it is "widely used in the precision gauge and tool industry".

ACF-50
From what I have read, ACF-50 also stays liquid. This is good because it will work well at getting into the finest, molecular-sized cracks and driving out water.

The manufacturers say: "On new metal ACF-50 forms a self-healing barrier that prevents corrosion from starting. ACF-50 remains physically and chemically effective for up to two years."

However by staying liquid this it is bad because it may prove to be slightly sticky.

Worse, they seem to be saying that ACF-50 is also working chemically and for this reason it does need to be reapplied every year.

Boesheild T-9
From what the manufacturers are saying Boeshield T-9 does sound slightly different in that they say that it "dries to a waxy, waterproof finish without leaving a sticky film to attract dirt, dust or mud." and "T-9 dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won’t wash off in rain, puddles or mud."

Tricky…. At the moment, for indoor use and well-box outdoor use, I am leaning towards, Boesheild T-9 – in fact I have just bought a small sample. And yes, my more delicate / precious tools are staying firmly indoors.

My thinking is that if something stays significantly liquid it's hard to imagine that it won't come off on your fingers and basically get everywhere, whereas a waxy finish may not.

That said, I often spend time in the West Highlands of Scotland and in my experience for any steel product where rust has already started to penetrated the paintwork… when it is going to be lashed with wind-driven salty rain, my bet is that none of the above would last 6 months!

 

Edited By John Smith 47 on 27/10/2021 23:29:35

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

That said, I often spend time in the West Highlands of Scotland and in my experience for any steel product where rust has already started to penetrated the paintwork… when it is going to be lashed with wind-driven salty rain, my bet is that none of the above would last 6 months!

Edited By John Smith 47 on 27/10/2021 23:29:35

Could you explain exactly what you need protecting from corrosion, I read the opening post and got the idea it was for small hand tools, now you're talking about paintwork and salty wind driven rain making me think Land rover off roading in Scotland, what are you trying to achieve?

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