What Did You Do Today 2019

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Missed the EDMES club meeting tonight as it was the Cricket Club annual dinner. I got a cup for being the most valuable non-player (mending all the mowers)

I know the feeling, I also get a mention at our CC dinner for similar services rendered. No cup but I always get a few free pints.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

With a colleague, attended the boiler-testing seminar hosted by Cardiff MES – we were very impressed by the track and club-house – and by the catering!

A valuable session, learnt a lot.

Many thanks to all.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

I have just stumbled across this interesting document entitled ‘Gear Errata Tables’

**LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/documents/gear%20errata%20tables.pdf

That title is somewhat cryptic, given that ’errata to what’ is not specified

Can anyone advise, please ?

MichaelG.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Document was created in 2014 by 'Woody', could that be Alan Wood?

Ian P

[Richard S2Participant @richards2]

Did a late night cooking job on the Water Cart wheels last night. Long job setting the individual letters around the hub faces. Had to cook one hub twice, as one letter chose to stick to the retainer washer, rather than the hub. Pleased with the result.

Initial check for size and placing the lettering for spacing-

On removal of the retaining washer after cooking, the sweated the lettering all in right place on first hub-

Partial clean up of the second hub shows promise-

Bit more maching on the hubs, then rivet to rims time.

Edit-PS Mods. should've really posted in the Workshop Prog forum. Happy if you want to move it?.   

Edited By Richard S2 on 20/10/2019 15:32:45

[GoCreateParticipant @gocreate]

Amazing work Richard! Looks Great!

Nigel

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Ian P on 20/10/2019 15:08:23:

Document was created in 2014 by 'Woody', could that be Alan Wood?

.

Thanks, Ian

MichaelG.

[john brown 17Participant @johnbrown17]

Please how did you do the letters,they look great well done.

john

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Finished off polishing the tiny bell crank link for my beam engine, then went on to start marking out the cylinder from a machined up piece of brass ( didn't get a pic today, next time ).

George.

[Richard S2Participant @richards2]

Posted by john brown 17 on 20/10/2019 17:40:51:

Please how did you do the letters,they look great well done.

john

Thanks John (and Nigel), Hope this helps to explain. Here's a link (hopefully) to an explaination of the process in another Topic/thread-

Modded Minnie

Bottom of page 1

Regards

Edited By Richard S2 on 20/10/2019 18:43:35

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

Fitted a cheap digital tachometer to the crusader today.

Since fitting the VFD, I've been a bit lost with speeds!

Works great!

Jim

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Finished boring out 15 mudhole doorways for an 8F loco in rebuild at the railway. They were black MS about 4.5" diameter x 1.75" long, with an oval recess about 78 x 90mm x 3/8" deep already CNC milled in one end. I had to bore 'em about 91mm diameter from t'other end to meet without chopping into the 3/8" wide elliptical shelf.

Sorry about the mixed UoMs, but I work in whatever's convenient, and I had a metric Ward 3db to do it on.

I'd already stuffed a succession of drills through the blanks, culminating in a 45mm., which I think is the biggest the turret sleeves would hold.

The machine's solid with a lot of grunt, which I was grateful for as there was nearly 14 cubic inches of steel to cut out of each blank. There's another volunteer who'd partly set it up, but I couldn't get his boring bar to cut – thinking about it since, that might've been due to a negative rake setup that'd rub on the lower edge of the carbide insert if the cut was less than a millimetre or so. Any road up, I substituted my own setup using another tipped boring bar. I found I could take 4mm depth of cut, with a generous suds flush giving – most of the time – a well-broken discontinuous chip flow. Reminded me of some of the work I did in my 20s, back in the mid-'70s.

The things still took me over half an hour each, and it was fiddly getting the depth right on the Ward, probably because I don't know how to set the saddle stops. I think t'other volunteer does, but I doubt he'd be happy to have his brains picked. Anyway, the bits are done, and although it was interesting, by the time I was finished I was glad to see the back of 'em.

[Ian Johnson 1Participant @ianjohnson1]

Today I've mostly been repairing a box, because I finally treated myself to a gauge block set last Friday at the Model Engineering Show, it's a Coventry Matrix good quality 50 piece set but the bakelite box was broken at the hinge side, so it needed repairing!

The set has a RR sticker on it so it must be good! Calibration valid until 1996 so it's just out of date! Weirdly the top of the box is made of wood so it must have been repaired before.

Clamped in the vice showing the damage to hinge side. Contemplating hack-sawing the damaged bit off.

Decided to mill the damaged bit off. Impressive bit of clamping don't you think?

New piece of hard wood inserted and glued into place, then milled down to size, and hinge pockets were also milled in.

Lid fitted and lettering re-whitened, bit of polish and the jobs a good 'un!

Very pleased with the gauge block set, most pieces will wring together apart from the larger sizes, so it has seen a lot of use, but checking the pieces with my digital micrometer down to five decimal places, it is still extremely accurate, certainly good enough for my use.

Ian

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Job is a very good 'un Ian. Well done. There something very satisfying about a sensitive refurbishment like that.

I remember my dad had a set, for some reason he called them "joe" blocks. No idea why?

Geoff

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

They were called joe blocks because some sets were made by a company called joehannsen, not sure if I have spelt that correctly though.

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

That looks like a good repair.

However, I hope that piece of hard wood isn't oak. If it is, I'd advise a coat of varnish, pdq!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, if it is Oak, don't use steel screws in it, as they will rust. Brass is the ideal screw for Oak.

Regards Nick.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Baz on 24/10/2019 09:19:08:

They were called joe blocks because some sets were made by a company called joehannsen, not sure if I have spelt that correctly though.

More than 'some sets were made by', Gauge Blocks and the first effective process for making them were both invented by Carl Edvard Johansson. As Johansson was the only source for many years (later in association with Ford and Brown & Sharpe), Jo Block came to mean any Gauge Block, much like Hoover means any Vacuum Cleaner. But since other people found ways of making gauge blocks in the 1930s, 'Jo Blocks' have slowly faded from memory. Johansson should be celebrated as a major force behind the introduction of modern precision engineering.

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Not sure why they get called Joe blocks if named after Johansson surely they should be Jo blocks pronounced YO as in Yo ho ho

[Ian Johnson 1Participant @ianjohnson1]

Yes it was a satisfying quick repair to a set which will out live me, hopefully to be passed on to someone else in the future. I'll leave the bare wood as it is, as a proud in your face repair! It's 'Heveawood' or Banana wood (from a chopping board) the same stuff as I made my base for my ongoing Stothert & Pitt Beam engine project.

I've mostly called them slip gauges when I was on the tools, but Jo blocks are a common name too especially in America where I think Ford bought the company. And for thirty quid I thought it was a reasonable price for a quality piece of kit.

Ian

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by JasonB on 24/10/2019 12:27:58:

Not sure why they get called Joe blocks if named after Johansson surely they should be Jo blocks pronounced YO as in Yo ho ho

.

A hearty welcome to pedants' corner, Jason

MichaelG.

[Robert BParticipant @robertb]

"I'll leave the bare wood as it is"

Knowing the black marks on our kitchen wooden work top, not oak, and experience with acidic wood I would seal it ASP. Those small bits of precise steel need looking after.

Rob

[Ian Johnson 1Participant @ianjohnson1]

Thanks guys I didn't realise that a piece of wood could be so dangerous! So I dyed it with a brown stain and black ink jet ink on top, invisible (ish) mending at its best!

Just got to get rid of the black ink of my fingers now! Tried everything, meths, acetone, cellulose, WD40 even tried Trichloroethane 111, there is no quick way of getting rid of ink jet ink off skin! I'll just have to wait until my skin cells regenerate!

Ian

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by Ian Johnson 1 on 24/10/2019 21:57:44:

Thanks guys I didn't realise that a piece of wood could be so dangerous!

….

Ian

Hmmm… maybe no need for too much hurry – here's an oak model gun carriage and a silver steel trunnion it's been in close contact with for 16+ years.

I don't think the bluing was immaculate from the start.

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

There was a touch of varnish the wood though!

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