WARCO WM-250 lathe family and WM16 mill

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

I think it is different. It is a 1.1 Kw delta Inverter drive Ac induction motor.- Whatever that is !!!

I removed the chuck guard almost immediately & that has a mounting bar with a switch somewhere along the line that disables power when the guard is raised.. If that has 2 wires to it then I could divert them to another switch on the bed. That would mean i would not have to touch any PCB etc.

I just need someone who has had one of these apart to give me the heads up on how best to go about it & if it is possible

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Hi Sam, I've got the same machine, Your machine has a 3 phase AC motor driven by the Delta inverter not a DC motor/pcb setup.

You could re-use the chuck guard interlock connections, if memory serves me correctly, these can be accessed by removing the rear cover of the headstock, this is where the inverter is housed. Whilst you have access to the inverter there are some parameters that can be changed which improve the machine, I found that the speed ramp up and ramp down times were set to long, and also the DC braking settings were sub-optimal. If you are going to rely on a interlock switch to stop the lathe before it crashes, you will need the spindle to stop a bit quicker than it currently does. If you want more detail, send me a PM and I will provide more detail. I'll be back home at the end of the week, happy to give you a call if you include your number in the PM. Where in the country are you?

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

Thanks –Essex, CM0 7LY

But I am off sailing to Channel Islands & then to Brest for the next couple of months starting in next couple of days

However, if i could find which wires to use I am sure i could work out how to rig a switch. I could just extend them.

Then I need to find a suitable switch. I am assuming 240 V. Is that correct ?

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Hi Sam,

All of the interlock circuit is low voltage, 24v dc IIRC. Any medium/heavy duty microswitch with NC contacts should do the job fine.

Enjoy the sailing and if you need any assistance with the lathe when you return please feel free to get in touch.

Graeme

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

Graeme

Thanks for that

I will PM you on my return when I have confidently opened up the headstock & found I am lost !!!!!!!!

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 23/05/2016 19:06:38:

If that has 2 wires to it then I could divert them to another switch on the bed.

Not sure how you mean "divert them", Sam. If you mean taking removing them from the switch on the guard and using them instead for the carriage switch (thereby losing the safety switch on the guard) it ought to be possible to have both by wiring the second switch in series or parallel (depending how the guard switch operates). That way you'd have both safety switches operational.

(Apologies if this is what you meant in the first place).

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

Posted by Bandersnatch on 24/05/2016 01:03:47:

Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 23/05/2016 19:06:38:

If that has 2 wires to it then I could divert them to another switch on the bed.

 

Not sure how you mean "divert them", Sam. If you mean taking removing them from the switch on the guard and using them instead for the carriage switch (thereby losing the safety switch on the guard) it ought to be possible to have both by wiring the second switch in series or parallel (depending how the guard switch operates). That way you'd have both safety switches operational.

(Apologies if this is what you meant in the first place).

What I have done is removed the guard & rotated the bar so the machine thinks the guard is in place.

I was considering just disconnecting the wires from the switch on the bar & re routing them to a new switch on the bed

Now Graeme has told me it is 24 V I assume I need a limit switch from someone like RS Components

I just need to sort out which one because Graeme has pointed out that the motor does not cut out instantaneously so I am not sure if that affects bed travel after it hits the switch so the switch may need to be a type of plunger or snap action & I have to determine which one

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 24/05/2016 07:51:45

[Ian WestlakeParticipant @ianwestlake17243]

Hello

I'm after a favour – Please would someone provide the following measurements:

• Bottom of the chip tray to the centre of the spindle/chuck
• Bottom of the chip tray to the top of the bedway
• Bottom of the chip tray to the handle of the manual feed for the saddle (with the handle in the 6pm position)

I want to work out what height a bench will need to be for the lathe I plan to buy (I will be welding a bench, however need to know the dimensions so that I can cut the metal).

Thanks

Ian

Edited By Ian Westlake on 18/03/2017 23:28:58

[john kennedy 1Participant @johnkennedy1]

Hi Ian,

Tray to spindle centre .. 309mm

Tray to flat of bed .. 182mm

Tray to saddle handle at 6pm ..80mm

A little tip, make it high to prevent backache.

John

[SteveWParticipant @stevew54046]

I made my bench 895mm O/A. to the top which is made from one layer 18mm ply and kitchen worktop to finish. I am 5' 10"" and the handle on the cross slide is about on a level with my elbow. I thought 'too high and I can stand on a box; too low and I'll need to dig a hole…'. Has worked out just right for me. No back problems.

[Ian WestlakeParticipant @ianwestlake17243]

Thank you to both of you, that's what I was after as I don't want to make it too low. I'm 5' 8", so I reckon 900mm height is about right, and if it isn't, I can knock up a duck board to stand on.

[Martin Botting 2Participant @martinbotting2]

Posted by Ian Westlake on 19/03/2017 18:07:54:

Thank you to both of you, that's what I was after as I don't want to make it too low. I'm 5' 8", so I reckon 900mm height is about right, and if it isn't, I can knock up a duck board to stand on.

I built mine a tad to high but have now screwed 6" blocks of soft wood to my boots and its fine, apart from smashing my nut on the ceiling.

[john kennedy 1Participant @johnkennedy1]

You're about right there Ian. I'm also 5'8" and I made my stand 830mm from the floor so you can make your duck board to suit.

John

[Bob RodgersonParticipant @bobrodgerson97362]

I used to get backache when I was working on my BH 600 because it was bit low for me. When I bought my CNC mill I put both my BH600 manual mill (Superlux) onto moveable trolleys with lockable wheels, they were made from 4" channel and the castors were a further 4 inches tall so I increased their height considerably.

As a result I no longer get backache when working at the lathe or the mill but I do get a lot more hot chips down my shirt from the lathe than ever before and I find it difficult to look over the top of the tool post.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Going back to this general thread of the Warco Family; have looked through this & done a search on 'oilers' & not having any results, could any one with a WM250V who has changed their oilers please let me know what size the ball oilers are on the saddle/ tailstock etc. A couple of mine need changing & rather than have to send back the wrong size or dig one out at the mo', I'd prefer if any member has the size to hand, or ref. link. IIRC somebody did mention the size 3/16 – 5mm, 1/4" – 6mm ?

TIA

George.

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