Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine

[bernard towers]

On bernard towers Said:

The hole that i mentioned is for the end of the tip that is not in use, the end facing away from the work.

Ah I see. I thought you meant it was a hole for the tip as a whole, rather than a hole for just one of the tips of the tip!

(I think that sentence goes some way towards explaining my confusion!)

Thanks.

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Overall I think one one thing I might do is cut the grooves staight after turning the rim flat across. That way I can offset from the centreline joint (as per the instructions – which worked pretty well for me during the trial run), and then if there’s a discrepancy at the end of the process, I can face off from each side of the wheel to make the end grooves equal distances in. I already know I have to do this to some extent, so it seems to make sense to do it last rather than first, to reduce my options to correct.

Going back to the tool holder – I have an R/T so I could possibly use that in conjunction with my 1mm milling cutter to make it?

Not withstanding Jason’s comments about stiffness – I wonder If I could make it out of round bar, with a flat milled on the end, to fit in a hole drilled in a much bigger bit of square stock?

Still doesn’t get me a 1mm wide groove tool, but at least it’s something.

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Can’t edit posts now, but Jason you mentioned cutting a holder using half of 55 degrees. You also mentioned using a VCGT insert which seems to be 35 degrees (closer to the 40 degrees of the grooves in the instructions)?

I don’t have any VCGT inserts, but could get a few off Amazon for this job.

I suppose the 55 degree DCGT inserts are the ones I’ve got, and would presumably require a shallower cut to make the trough/peak distances correct, which might be advantageous in terms of reducing the chance of chatter?

Thanks.

 

 

[Author]

Posts