Making small helical gear(s)

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Making small helical gear(s)

Home Forums Beginners questions Making small helical gear(s)

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  • #242290
    Dave Smith the 16th
    Participant
      @davesmiththe16th

      Someone mentioned that free hobbing was OK for a gear that does not have to be a specific size, but when it needs to be specific then you need to cut the number of teeth into the gear to start with?

      Thanks

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      #242295
      Jens Eirik Skogstad 1
      Participant
        @jenseirikskogstad1
        Posted by Dave Smith the 16th on 11/06/2016 05:24:20:

        Someone mentioned that free hobbing was OK for a gear that does not have to be a specific size, but when it needs to be specific then you need to cut the number of teeth into the gear to start with?

         

        Thanks

         

        As i showed you the movie,.. also make the gearwheel in exact size measured from the old gear wheel and precut the spacer between gear teeths before cut with the gear cutter who has exact size from worm in gearbox to create the gearwheel with correct teeth form and angle.

        Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 11/06/2016 07:08:12

        #285063
        vintagengineer
        Participant
          @vintagengineer

          If you really want to lock a thread on, you need to use what we used before loctite was invented. Clean both threaded parts with brake cleaner, then paint the the male part with Frys solder paint, assemble and the heat with a blowlamp.

          Really difficult to get apart!

          Posted by Dave Smith the 16th on 09/06/2016 20:25:06:

          Yeah i bought a bottle of 271, i put a tiny drop on 1/4 of a washer and pressed 2 together with them just overlapping approx 5mm and it took a good twist to break them apart.

          Not troed silver soldering. What draws the solder into the joint? the heat or the flux?

          Thanks.

          #285068
          Neil Wyatt
          Moderator
            @neilwyatt

            > Not troed silver soldering. What draws the solder into the joint? the heat or the flux?

            > Neither, it's capillary action.

            Well yes, but…

            heat has to be sufficient to make the solder fluid enough and flux removes oxide/prevents it from forming and allows the solder to 'wet' the parent metal so both are required to create the conditions where the solder can be drawn into the joint by capillary action.

            Actually… solder will flash across a hot, fluxed single surface so I suppose that surface tension alone rather than capillary action (surface tension action between closely spaced surfaces) is sufficient to draw solder across a surface.

            #285080
            Anonymous
              Posted by Neil Wyatt on 19/02/2017 20:56:34:

              > Neither, it's capillary action.

              Well yes, but…

              Hmmm, on the new politically correct forum I thought we weren't allowed to point out that previous posters were wrong?

              Andrew

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