Is Evo-stik impact adhesive good for wood to plastic? Is bond long lasting?

[Simon Robinson 4Participant @simonrobinson4]

How good is evo-stik impact adhesive for glueing plastic to wood and how many years or decades is the bond good for? Thanks.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

A bit more detail would help – for example some plastics don’t glue well, and the usage & nature of the assembly and the environment to which it will be exposed can all affect what might reasonably be expected.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As said more details are needed. I know it makes vinly tile and flooring go soft and will attack polystyrene and is not meant for external use.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, have you read their literature Evo-stik ? or their Technical Data Sheets ?

All I can say is that when I’ve used Evo-Stik products, according to their instructions, it does what it’s said on the tin.

Regards Nick.

[Andrew CrowParticipant @andrewcrow91475]

I used it to stick Formica to blackboard about 50 years ago to make kitchen worktops. I’m still using some pieces as work surfaces in the workshop and it’s still OK.

Andy

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

It’s OK with the Phenolic resin used to make Formica and other HPLs but will attack certain plastics as the link Nick posted shows.

Also does not stick to others, easy to peel the dried glue off the provided notched spreaders so has not bonded to them

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Same as Andrew Crow, almost 60 years ago I made kitchen units for our self build house and fixed Formica surface and edging strips I cut to block board with Evostik.  Never had a problem and one set of the wall cupboards is now in my workshop showing no sign of separation.

I think care and preparation are vital as it is with many adhesives.

John

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Evo stick and Bostick are very like cellulose paint, they all attack the same materials.

The American Gorilla range seem to be entirely new. You don’t need the set with water gap filling foaming ones.

[Simon Robinson 4Participant @simonrobinson4]

It’s to glue 0.08” styrene strip to wood in a model that will be kept dry and displayed indoors. The join will not have any load bearing requirements. It’s only a cosmetic part of model.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

It will attack the polystyrene

[Simon Robinson 4Participant @simonrobinson4]

It’s to glue 0.08” (2.1 mm) styrene strip to wood in a model that will be kept dry and displayed indoors. The square styrene rods will go into a hole drilled into wood to be glued so they can stand vertically The join will not have any load bearing requirements. It’s only a cosmetic part of model. (They will be the vertical rails on spiral stairs where the hand rail will be attached) it’s part of a 1:75 scratch build scale model of a Boeing 747Sp cutaway)

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The solvents in the glue will melt the strip, make it go soft and your handrail will lean over.

It also needs to be applied sparingly to BOTH surfaces which will not be easy inside such a small hole and as it can’t be moved once the two coated surfaces make contact you won’t be able to push the rod into the hole.

last downside is it remains flexible so even if it did not disolve the part and could be stuck in the hole it would wobble about.

Cyano will be fine

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

From Nick’s link

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I’m not a model maker, so can I ask an ignorant question?   My experience with impact adhesives suggests they won’t be good for delicate model work because they grab.  You can’t slowly slide two sticky parts into exact position because the joint forms so quickly.  And you do manage to move the joint, it’s badly weakened.  You can guess how I know!

Gut feel is I should avoid impact adhesives for anything requiring careful positioning; is that right?

The secret of glue seems to be perfect cleanliness, finding the right adhesive for the materials, and following the instructions exactly.

Can anyone explain why cheapo decorator tape sticks more firmly than everything else?  It’s supposed to be removable and isn’t!

Dave

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Thats right Once the contact adhesives make contact you don’t really get another chance though there are some that can be repositioned. With things like HPL (Formica) the sheet is usually oversize so you have  abit of play if it goes down wrong as it can be trimmed flush to the substrate.

Cheap tape says it all, get some 3M. Even then it should not be left on for too long and will still pull off paint etc that is poorly bonded to what is below. It can also go off over time so use a fresh roll if you are sticking to something valuable.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

..also some tape really is pressure sensitive, if you press it down hard, it will stick hard – if masking, you only need enough pressure along the edge to stop bleeding, the rest just needs a light dab to hold it in place.. ..sorry it’s not easily quantifiable..!

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, there are plenty of low tack masking tapes available, which are designed for delicate and or painted surfaces, but of course they can be used on most surfaces, but even they shouldn’t be left on for longer than needed. Masking tape should be carefully peeled away from the painted area though, which normally stops it peeling your new paint off as well.

Regards Nick.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Tamiya Masking Tape is generally accepted to be the best ‘go to’ in the model boating world. It has excellent characteristics. and comes in a variety of widths., I use it all the time.

Also, Jason is 100% right. Don’t use Evo Stik with plastic.

Colin

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

Not tried it, but I saw (somewhere on the internet) that putting a roll of old masking tape in a microwave for a few seconds rejuvenates the glue and makes it as good as new. Might work?

Rob

[Charles LamontParticipant @charleslamont71117]

So, getting back to the OP, contact adhesive – seems not a good idea. PVA – maybe, but does not stick well to non-porous surfaces. Superglue – probably sets too fast. How about a clear glue such as Bostic?

[peter1972Participant @peter1972]

I would use PVA: I think it will stick more than adequately. It will be relatively easy to quickly clean up any excess adhesive that squeezes out of the holes when the rods are pushed in by use of a damp cloth. paper towel or cotton buds.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Does Pva stick to plastic????

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You can get Cyano (superglue) with various setting times upto about 5mins which would be my choice from my plastic AFV and figure modelling days

[bernard towers]

On bernard towers Said:

Does Pva stick to plastic????

I understand the square styrene rods will go into holes of appropriate size drilled vertically and will not be subject to any significant force. I doubt you would be able to pull the rods out of the holes once fully set. PVA would probably not be suitable for a butt joint.

 

 

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Does Pva stick to plastic???

To some extent.

Jason is correct that in this case a slowish setting Cyano is the best choice unless you are affected by the fumes.

A PVA derived alternative is Canopy Glue which is intended for attaching transparent components such as cockpit canopies to plastic kits although it has many other uses. It dries clear.

https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=105&srsltid=AfmBOopeyoqF54lSG2qzrO-VJHwb-b0Tbs2V-yaa_RlXn-Nxot1l4cBd

Colin

 

 

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